Grape Sense - Glass Half Full

White Burgundy,Chianti Classico from Organic Grapes

2012-01-31T12:36:00.004-05:00

It's time to get back to some specific wines and I have tasted two since returning from France which are available in the United States and made from organically grown grapes.

Chateau Laubarit 2007 Entre-Deux-Mers - Or, we're talking white Bordeaux if that makes things a little easier. Forget it's Bordeaux and you can forget it's French. This is great white wine.

The white is a blend of 60 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 20 percent Semillon, and 20 percent Muscadelle. It's a white you could drink alone, as a cocktail or with dinner. I served a guest, who is not a big white drinker, this wine with roasted pork chops and roasted herbed potatoes and he loved it!

This is easy drinking wine with enough complexity to satisfy any wine drinker. The Semillon and Muscadelle give the wine a super soft palate feel. The alcohol content is a low 12 percent. At $16, you won't find a white that drinks any easier with this much palate pleasing presence.

Julien grabs a bottle for the photo!

Casina Di Cornia 2005 Chianti Classico Reserva - This winery was my very first stop during my recent trip to the Millesime Bio in Montpellier, France. I met Julien Luginbuhl who just returned to his family wine-making business within the last year.

I love Chianti but find the quality so uneven with dollops of Merlot and uneven acid in many of the wines you find on U.S. shelves. The Cornia Classico Reserva was big bold dark cherry with balanced acid and a satisfying finish that didn't over power the fruit.

I love the fact the family uses Sangiovese and the old Italian varietal Canaiolo for the wine - NO Merlot. Being a Classico and a Reserva moves the price up a bit to the mid-$20 range, but it's worth the price.

Casina Di Cornia has been producing its wines with organically grown grapes for more than a decade.

I would challenge any wine drinker to taste either of these wines, both highly recommended, and not appreciate the fact that no pesticides, no herbicides or other chemicals - and only minimum sulfur - go into the production process.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Thursday in Languedoc Countryside Was Trip's Highlight

2012-01-29T11:21:00.002-05:00

Spending a full week in Southern France's Languedoc wine region was full of highlights. The week built to a full day out in the Languedoc countryside that really capped the week off.

I returned to Indiana Friday evening and have been recovering from the long flights. I have a lot of material to wade through. But I'm going to post some notes and build some albums as I got along.

Thierry Julien giving us a taste of Janiny wines.

Thursday was highlighted by a morning with Jacques Frelin who is a major figure in organic wine exporting to the U.S. His family is widely credited for starting the organic wine movement and starting the AIVB, the organic wine organization that sponsors the Millesime Bio wine fair.

Jacques took me to the 3 S bottling plant that serves many wineries in southern France and then on to Pezenas.

Thierry Julien's family also has a long history in organic vineyard practices. Julien is the current AIVB president.

The two shared candid thoughts about the perception of organic wine in the U.S. and why there remains much confusion. Their remarks are quite interesting. I'll be writing that story for Palate Press in coming weeks.

But I have a lot of material I can use in the newspaper column and elsewhere. And I have a lot of material that will eventually get posted here.

Here is a photo album built this morning from my Thursday in the Languedoc.
Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

The Languedoc Countryside with Organic Leaders

2012-01-26T15:17:00.001-05:00

Thierry Julien, AIVB President

Southern France organic wine producers, and the Languedoc in particular, face an uphill battle in the United States trying to convince consumers that organically grown grapes and "organic wine" isn't a simple discussion about sulfites.

That is the shared opinion from two of the movement's leaders and founders. The AIVB's current president goes even further. He suggested in a late afternoon interview in his office in St. Bauzille de la Sylve that some U.S. producers (and perhaps others) suggest no wine with sulfites can be called organic not for the most definitive definition of organic but simply to protect market share.

Thierry Julien, current Association Interprofessional Des Vins Biologigues (organic wine producers), believe some of the constant U.S. debate centered on sulfites is not a true debate but one to surpress the growth of wines produced from organically grown grapes.

That is a bit of a taste from an interview I did with Julien at his winery and in his office in Southern France. Most of material I gathered today will be used for a Palate Press story about organic wine.

Jacques Frelin

My morning was with Jacques Frelin the first-ever president of the AIVB and General Manager of Terrior Vivants. Jacques is one of France's leading exporters of organic wine. He works with 35 individual producers a negociant - or wine buyer.

Frelin's family founded France's organic movement beginning in the mid 1960s when his father-in-law was getting ill dealing wih chemicals used in the vineyard.

Frelin is an eloquent and passionate spokesperson for organic wine. He speaks about the health of vineyard farmers and doing the right thing for the Earth and the environment.

He escorted me through an informative tour of the lab which scrutinizes his wines and assures all government regulation is met. Jacques makes it clear it's harder to produce wine made from organic grapes than traditional methods.

His and Thierry's comments are insightful and even provocative.

Languedoc's old vines and terroir

This is my last post from Southern France. I'm off early tomorrow morning for a flight back to Indiana. It's a long series of flights.

I have a world of material to share in coming weeks and months. I add a personal note of thank you to several people. First, thanks to the AIVB for including me on its annual press tour. San Francisco wine importer and distributor Vernonique Rasking and Maine importer Paul Chartrand for making the trip happen. Those two were also responsible for this remarkable day in the Languedoc countryside. And, one more thanks to Sarah Hargreaves, a local wine PR professional, for being my driver and translator today. We had great fun.

I hope/plan to sit down this weekend and write a wrap up post of things that won't fit into bigger stories, about my first-ever trip to France, and such.

I will have a newspaper column or two in coming weeks, a big piece on French organic wine on Palate Press in coming weeks, and other material to share from this trip.

Au revoir!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

The Wine World Through a Buyer's Eyes

2012-01-26T03:28:00.003-05:00

Importer Paul Chartrand and Perlage GM Ivo Nardi

MONTPELIER, France - Yesterday was the final day of Millesime Bio, the organic wine trade show, here and what a full day!

I spend most of the day with Paul Chartrand, a Maine importer of wines made from organic grapes. Paul, his northeastern distributor "Sam" and I made the rounds tasting plenty of wines and talking to current suppliers and tasting wines Paul may wish to carry in the future.

I was hoping to interview a couple of more people yesterday but I found the experience of tasting with a veteran wine buyer too valuable to pass up.

Marcella and I share a Prosecco toast!

We started our morning with a lengthy session (maybe 30-45 minutes, for this show a long time) with Perlage of Soligo, Italy. Perlage is one of, if not, the leading organic producer in Italy. Perlage is located in Prosecco, Italy's northeast region opposite Piedmont.

We tasted through several wonderful Prosecco sparkling wines all made from organic grapes. Though not a huge fan of sparkling wines, I've always found Prosecco among the most enjoyable. These were outstanding examples.

We chatted with family estate General Manager Ivo Nardi and his sales manager Marcella Callegari. Ivo speaks limited English so we conducted a short interview with Marcella acting as interpreter.

I learned a lot from Paul as he charted wine prices using a spread sheet to add shipping costs, his margin, and what he could sell the wines per case to U.S. distributors. Paul works in a certain price point. He takes the organic wine world seriously having been involved in food and wine issues since his college days.

And, you do get every winemakers full attention as a U.S. wine journalist. But when you have a U.S. wine importer along, that doesn't hurt either.

I should note for readers close to my home in Indiana, that Perlage is available in Indiana and many surrounding states. Friend Derek Gray of GrayBull Wines is Paul's Indiana distributor.

The Rest of the Day ...

We made many more stops throughout the day and in the afternoon Paul went into "power tasting" mode. We rushed from stand to stand but once Paul arrived at each customer's table he gave them individual attention and took the time to appreciate their wines.

We tasted outstanding whites from the Loire region, some more Italian, and a large range of Languedoc wines. Paul even took a suggestion from me and visited a producer I liked. We were rushing up until 5 p.m. when it was time to catch our buses back into the city.

Thursday

Today may be the best day for photos and learning more about Languedoc. I'm spending the day at three wineries and talking to the current AIVB president and past president. We're having lunch in a small village and visiting wineries and wine cellars. Friends, it just doesn't get any better than that itinerary for a day in Southern France.

I will definitely get something posted tonight, maybe a photo album if nothing more. But it will be early to bed to catch a 5:45 a.m. taxi to the airport and head home.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Young Guns Boosting Organic Wine Growth

2012-01-24T17:08:00.004-05:00

MONTPELLIER, FRANCE – There are 587 wineries from around the world participating in the 19th Millesime Bio here and there seems to be just as many stories.

Men of 70 and 80 years old with domaine and chateau names which just sound historic are plentiful. But you also see the young guns. There are a substantial number of 30-something and even 20-something year old winemakers. Some are following in their father’s footsteps while others sought out the life of vineyard work and winemaking on their own.

Cyril Bonnet

Cyril Bonnet is a very young winemaker with a very long history. He is the seventh generation to make wine. Most of that history is in Champagne where his father and family still live making the iconic bubbly at Chateau Bonnet-Ponson. But Cyril wanted to go out on his own and now has Chateau Bonnet in Villaudric, just northwest of Toulouse.

Bonnet is one of those 587 producers trying to make a name for himself. He grows an odd little variety most outside of Southwestern France have never heard of before. He blends Negrette with other more common varietals and even makes a 100 percent Negrette wine.

Being a young winemaker at 28 with an obscure grape means marketing is important. He also is a believer in organic practices and is fully certified.

"It’s very, very important, to be exported to the clients and be here at Millesime Bio,” Bonnet said. “If you can’t come to this type of fair it’s impossible to make contact to customers. My father told me this one is important because it’s very professional, very simple and we love it.

“Maybe 30 years ago it was possible to make it just working in your vineyard with what you sell there at the farm. But now maybe 50 percent of the work is to go to find customers and the other 50 percent is to make a good wine.”

Bonnet is serious about organics and grew up knowing nothing else. His father started organic practices in Champagne in 1979. “My father is very sensitive to all ecology and puts more of an emphasis on being all organic. I agree with this position, but I don’t like the extreme side when it goes toward biodynamic.”

The wines were interesting. I liked the Negrette grape and it definitely has a different flavor profile. The wine was light on the palate and it made for very drinkable red table wine. Bonnet is producing about 2,200 cases of wine each year.

I was able to do 6 interviews and get a lot done today for future blogs, Palate Press, and the newspaper column. I am getting together with U.S. importer of organic wines Paul Chartrand, who works out of Maine, to taste our way through more wineries Wednesday.

Another Young Gun

Luigi Di Tuccio

Antica Enotria - Luigi Di Tuccio was handing the pouring, sales, and marketing chores mid afternoon at his family winery's table. He could also be described as a young guy. He was worked every aspect of the business with his father. His father was one of first in Italy's Puglia to make the move to organics and became a leader in the region.

The winery has some great varietals that aren't household names - Nero di Troia, Aglianico and white wine grape Falanghina. His wines are available on both coasts. The family makes approximately 8,000 cases annually.

Other stops ...

Romain Bouchard - Two young brothers with no real family history in the wine business decided to buy a winery that had gone out of business in the Chablis region. They are now making two Chablis and have found some success with wines being exported to New York.

Chateau de Fosse Seche - This fun young couple are making wines in trhe Loire Valley's famed Samur region. I tasted their Samur Chenin Blanc and found it not as light as others I'd enjoyed but sure tasty. They also had a very nice Cabernet Franc.

Sitios De Bodega - This started out as a case of mistaken identy. I was looking for a winery I would find later then the language barrier with a Spanish woman and my confusion gave us a laugh. I ended up tasting and liking her first vintage of Verdejo which I liked very much. Export manager Alejandra Sanz was a good sport, with pretty good English, in telling me about the new effort.

Domaine de Picheral - Boxed wine in France seems a pretty ridiculous opposites attract kind of thing. But I've seen lots of boxed wines at the fair. I approach with my typical Tew Parl Ongleah? "Do you speak English?" to get two shaing heads and plenty of laughs for the three of us. What the heck, we used hand signals and pointing - a universal language - to taste a pretty darn good Rose, and a rather forgettable red. It was fun.

Ploder-Rosenberg - Austrian winemaker Freddy Ploder was the most congenial host of the day. The short, stout man was an enthusiastic wine tour guide through is tasting. Sharing just the right amount of wine geek talk, history, and good humor. I liked the entire line. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc ... with several of he wines done in different winemaking styles.

As I wrote yesterday, I visited quite a few more wineries but these were the most interesting stops. And I visited several and did interviews which will turn up in future writing.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

First Day of Tasting in France; I liked Italian

2012-01-23T19:03:00.043-05:00

MONTPELLIER, FRANCE – I visit arguably the most important wine country in the world and two of the three best wines I tasted today were Italian. What are the odds?

The three-day Millesime Bio opened today with thousands of buyers, importers, more than 100 press people and nearly 600 wineries presenting wine. The 19th annual gather here on the Mediterranean coast has to be seen to be fully appreciated.

Part of my day was taken up by a couple of interviews, technical problems, and getting my laptop somewhat functional. I still managed to stop by 8-10 different winery booths. Picking up printed brochures, taking notes and photos is just one of the ways to remember details.

Julien with a bottle of his Chianti Classico

My first stop was at the table of Casina Di Corina of Tuscany’s Italy region. The winery and family estate is located near the south central city of Siena. I spent a good bit of time with Julien Luginbuhl who just returned to his family wine-making business.

Julien’s father bought the property in 1979 and immediately began organic farming practices in the vineyards. “It was just his way of thinking then and it’s still the same now,” Luginbuhl said. “It’s my way of thinking.”

That wasn’t always the case because Luginbuhl initially decided he would make his name in different forms of agricultures and went off to university. But just this year he returned to the family land is now living in one of the guest houses and working the family winery.

He worries though that the family’s small property won’t be big enough as his older brother and he slowly take over the business. The winery currently produces a modest 2000-3000 cases a year. Julien is thinking the brothers might have to look at buy more hectres for grape production.

With 600 wineries, you need a strategy

The two wines I tasted were his Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico, both from 100 percent Sangiovese. Beautiful cherry fruit and understated acidity made these as good as any $10-$20 Chianti I’ve tasted. No regular wine drinker could pick them out as “organic” or anything else.

And that’s really the point of this gathering. The organic farming practices are very important to these world leaders in the organic grape growing business. But the first thing they have to do with each vintage is make great wine. No one will listen to anything about organics, not to mention buying a bottle, if it doesn’t taste good.

These Chianti wines were great examples of good Italian wines.

Nice Wines from Italy's Piedmont.

The other stop at an Italian table was with gentleman winemaker Alessandro Uslenghi of Nouva Cappelletta. I've tasted more good to great Chardonnay this trip than I ever expected. Cappelletta's Chard was light but rich in Chardonnay flavor, mild acidity, some nice pear on the nose. I also enjoyed his Cortese, three Barberra wines (one without sulfites) and a wonderful Rose.

Nebbiolo is many wine drinkers favorite grape and certainly one of mine. Monday I tasted my first Nebbiolo Rose' and it was fabulous. It was my "suprise" pick of the day. It had wonderful structure and acidity and intense fruit on the nose.

Allessandro's single vineyard Barbera, Minola, was just great wine. I've never drank a lot of Barberra but this one could change that habit.

Other stops ...

Domaine Virgile Joly - Every region has its up-and-coming star, even if not everyone agrees on who that might be. Virgile Joly s certainly one of those rising stars (if not already established as a leading winemaker) in the Languedoc.

He joined us for inner on Saturdayt night and I tasted through his wines Monday. He has a new Grenache Blanc that's wonderfully interesting and light white wine. I plan to sit down with Virgile today or tomorrow for an interview.

Domaine des Cedres - This Cotes du Rhone winery has solid Cotes offerings. Frankly, nothing spectacular but very solid representation of the region.

O'Vineyards - Here is a great story I'll be writing in in more detail in near future. Ryan O'Connell and parents moved from Florida to Southern France in 2004 and opened a winery. Beside the unusual migration, Ryan is setting new standards for social media and exploring ideas of wine tourism that are fresh for the area. His blog "Love That Languedoc" is a big hit.

Best Wine of the Day - But the very best thing I tasted all day was a traditional Languedoc blend from Carle and Courty and wine maker Frederick Carle. His Cuvee Marion (his daughter) was rich, nice acid, great balance, and lingering finish red wine. It's a blend of 70 percent Syrah, Carignan, and Mouvredre. It won a gold medal at this year's Millesime Bio competition.

Odd and ends ...

I certainly did taste more wines .... and more wineries. Those were some of the highlights. I'm hoping to catch up with importer Paul Chartrand today. Tomorrow he'll show me around to some of his favorite winery tables.

Also, I do try to post several Twitter updates throughout the afternoon. Just click the Twitter button at right.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Technology Fried = No Detailed Blog Post

2012-01-22T17:55:00.002-05:00

Dinner: Guineafowl

At last count, I tasted 43 wines today and fried my netbook power connection.

I was able to post pics to Twitter and one to Facebook. I hope to be back in business Monday. Several of my new French friends have offered to help.

Greqt day though. Hopefully, I can be back in business Monday. I have managed to get one photo up here: Dinner was Guineafowl :... our waiter said turkey. The french at our table were quick to correct him. It was delicious.

Did I mention the appetizer? A soft boiled egg surrounded by a seasoned foam with black truffles. It was damn tasty.

Yes, it said 43 wines at the top ...

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Kickoff Dinner with Organic Winemakers

2012-01-21T18:27:00.001-05:00

The press trip for the Millesime Bio got underway tonight with a dinner at Plaisirs des Mets in the old part of downtown Montpellier.

We had three winemakers join us for dinner and pour their wines. I'm not sure if the dinner was typical French cuisine but the group found it interesting. The group is just as interesting. We have a five Danish journalists, several from Germany, one from Finland, and a British wine writer who splits time between London and the Loire Valley.

Dinner was every bit as interesting as the wines. We started with what most of us thought was some deviled crab in crispy shells - much like an egg roll. It was on some greens with a bit of sauce.Our choice of entree was simple fish or veal. I opted for the fish and it was great. The skin was crispy the white fish was really delicious and the bones were pretty easy to deal with. I didn't eat the head - just couldn't to it.

The dessert was off the charts. There were two rolled, crispy pastry shells filled with a chocolate grenache. One was a bit more bold than the other.

There was also a nice small foam and an uber-sweet, homemade vanilla ice cream. Some had coffeee and some did not after dessert. We all had more wine.

The wines were uneven, all organic, but for the most part very nice.

Joining us for dinner was Jean Paul Cabanis of Domaine Cabanis, who sat across form me. Marie Teisserenc of Chateau Du Luc and Virgile Joly of the winer that bears his name. Again, all are producing wines from organically grown grapes.

Jean Paul

These are truly small producers. Cabanais, as example, makes about 8000 cases of wine annually. His Mouvredre-based wine was the best of the night for me and a couple of others. It comes from south of Nimes and the southern most appellation in the Rhone Valley. He does all the aging in cement. The wine had a delightful nose, a bit of tartness on the finish and beautiful balance.

I had Jean Paul's wine with my fish and it was awesome. The Mouvredre blend also won a silver medal at this year's Millesime Bio.

Jean Paul got the evening started with perhaps the most unique offering. He poured his white claret wine, a grape almost always used for red wines. It had a nice tartness to go along with a unqiue nose and finish. He sells alot of this wine to Japanese buyers to pair with Sushi.

Joly

Joly had the best white of the night for my taste. His wines were the most consistent of the night as well. His new Grenache Blanc was light and refreshing. It had light citrus and beautiful blance.

Teisserenc's wines had prominent oak and in a couple of instances too much oak. But her '09 Vigonier was certainly different than many you'll find. It's fermented and aged in oak and comes out an unusually dark yellow for this grape. It's also an unusually high 15 percent alcohol.

Her best wine was a 2010 Chateau Coulon from Corbiers that was light with a blend of Carignon, Syrah, and Grenache. The grapes are all hand picked and handled in a manner her father started years ago.

Teisserenc

Ok, so these producers won't be easy to find. But it makes a point I've made over and over again. Seek out smaller producers and you often find outstanding wines. The wines we tasted Saturday night didn't have any of the negative characteristics sometimes associated with organic wines - thin on the palate. Some were certainly better than others. But if I poured most wine drinkers the best of what we had tonight they would never haven known whether they were organic or not.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Arriving for Week-Long Stay in Languedoc Wine Region

2012-01-21T11:38:00.001-05:00

Montpellier, France – The incredible charm and history of European cities never ceases to amaze me when I have at least a little time to wander the streets.

I left Indianapolis Friday at 1 p.m. and arrived this morning in Montpellier, France (via Atlanta and Paris) for a week-long press stay in this modern and ancient city that sets on the Mediterranean Sea. I’ll be attending the 19th Millesime Bio Monday through Wednesday. Tomorrow the press group will learn more about organic wines, visit a winery, and finish the day with dinner and winemakers presenting their organic wines.

A couple of interesting buildings facing Place de la Comedie

Before flying home Friday, Jan. 27, I’ll be spending Thursday visiting three wineries out in the Languedoc region. All three producers have significant history in the organic wine movement.

Today was about recovery from all that time in the air. So I had a short nap this morning and then met the marketing person organizing the press trip for a nice seafood salad lunch. I then took 2.5 hours to walk the old historic part of the city. I could walk the old streets and soak in the charm for a week without ever getting to a winery.

I love how alive these old European cities are. The huge pedestrian gathering spots and streets draw tourists, locals, and plenty of performing artists. I posted an album you can click here. A few of the photos are labeled but most aren't. I could look up all the history but as you can tell looking through its an area rich with Roman-style and French architecture.

This evening the 15-member press group gathers for the first time for dinner with a few organic winemakers pouring their wines. Hopefully, I'll have the energy afterwards to write a short re-cap of meeting the winemakers and enjoying my first dinner in France. Hopefully! If not, come back each night this week for stories, wrap-ups, photos and highlights.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Smooth Australian Semillon Surprises

2012-01-19T19:02:00.003-05:00

Semillon is a grape many novices have never tried and probably not even heard about. The grape is grown widely in Australia, France, Chile, and South Africa. I tasted some California grown Semillon in Mendocino County, CA., last January.

I think it's a wine many wine drinkers would really like if they give it a try.

I recently opened a 2008 Australian Jenke Vineyards Barossa Semillon. The family moved from Germany to Australia in the 1800s.

The wine is crisp and grassy like a Sauvignon Blanc with hints of lime and lemon.

Many white wines are just a one hit wonder, but the Jenke Semillon had balance, some action on the mid palate and a wonderful lingering finish.

You could have this wine alone any night or serve it with vegetarian dishes. I would be a marvelous pairing with roasted chicken.

I found prices all over the place on the internet ranging from $15-$23. I paid $19.99 at Cork and Cracker in Indy.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Indiana Scores at S.F. Chronicle Wine Contest

2012-01-19T11:48:00.001-05:00

It's always great news when Midwestern wineries can enter the really big wine competitions and come home with honors.

Mark Easley, who runs the family-owned Easley Winery in downtown Indianapolis, has to be elated! He buys some of those great Michigan Riesling grapes and makes a Riesling that just won a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Congratulations to Mark for being a part of the ever-growing movement to improve Hoosier state wines!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Full Immersion into Organic Wine World

2012-01-16T17:32:00.003-05:00

I've downloaded the French language app to my iPhone and buried my nose in more than a few articles on organic wine. Next week I'll be attending the 19th Millesime Bio wine trade show on organic wines in Montpellier, France.

The Millesime Bio brings together wineries and members of the worldwide distribution network in a private trade fair. This year organizers expect 600 exhibitors from countries all over the world, drawing some of the world's leading wholesalers, brokers, wine merchants, sommeliers, caterers, and importers.

And like any such show, there will be a small number of wine journalists there as well. I will be attending, with a group of Northern European wine journalists, as guests of The Inter-professional Association of Organic Wines from Languedoc-Roussillon.

France's often overlooked Languedoc-Roussillon region, in southern France, is one of the leading organic grape-growing areas in the world. The region has 50,000 hectares under organic prodcution in 2010. That's 124,000 acres for you non-metric types.

Exhibitors pouring their wines will come from all over the world. The annual gathering also includes presentations and talks on organic wine laws and growing practices.

I'll have more later in the week. But I do intend to update throughout my time in France on Twitter, Facebook, and nightly updates here.

I'm blessed to have Veronique Raskin of The Organic Wine Company in San Francisco and Paul Chartrand of Chartrand Imports helping make the trip possible and arranging a few big highlights. The conference runs Jan. 23-25, but Raskin and Chartrand have arranged for me to visit three wineries on Thursday of that week before returning. I'll visit with founders of the Languedoc organic movement and the AIVB president.

It's quite exciting to visit southern France and be immersed in the worldwide discussion on organically grown grapes.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Wabash Magazine: Above the Rim

2012-01-13T14:51:00.028-05:00

My wine writing and work in marketing at Wabash College do cross paths. I have written about a couple of our graduates in the California wine industry for our alumni magazine.Last summer I visited Willamette Valley in Oregon and have written extensively about that here, my newspaper column, Palate Press and elsewhere.

Our alumni magazine editor Steve Charles was preparing an issue with a travel theme. He asked me to write about my latest wine trip from a travel perspective. I really enjoyed telling the story of those behind the tasting room counters and behind the scenes.

Here is a PDF of those four pages as they appear in this issue of the Wabash Magazine.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Saturday Morning of Fresh Goodness

2012-01-09T17:38:00.005-05:00

The City Market is an old Indianapolis tradition

While this post is mainly for my friends in Central Indiana, I'd hope it also provides encouragement to anyone who reads the post to find Winter Farmers Markets in your community. But it's not just about farmers markets either. Small retailers, especially wine retailers, need you more than ever in the first quarter of the year. Business falls off and they need your support.

One of my favorite Saturday morning activities year round is driving 45 minutes south to Indianapolis and visit several stops where I can buy food and wine items I just can't get in a town of 16,000 where I live.

The farmers market delivers fresh produce in winter!

My Saturday started at the Indianapolis Winter Farmers Market inside the old City Market in downtown Indy. The City Market is worth the trip with its interesting food stands and variety of vendors. I bought a dry lentil/BBQ soup mix for the crock pot from U-Relish Farm before ever getting to the Farmers Market.

The winter market draws a huge crowd. I worked my way around the market then doubled back to buy some goodies. I picked up some very flavorful pastas at Your Family's Pasta stand. I've found many flavored pastas I've bought in the past not very flavored. I had a bite of some of the pasta at the Rubenstein's stand and the flavors popped.

The lemon/pepper pasta rocked.

I'm a sucker for chocolates, especially truffles. I picked up some chocolate-covered orange rinds from friend Julie Bolejack's Chocolate for the Spirit. Julie was working a different market Saturday but I was able to visit briefly with her husband. But you can never have enough, so I stopped and chatted with Suzanne Litteral at Litterally Divine Truffles and picked up a couple of dark chocolate truffles.

One of the more interesting and fun stops was with a young man behind the Smoking Goose table. The smoke and cure meats from Indiana farms with an eye toward handcrafting their products. I bought a Duck, Pear, Port Sausage. Really! I can't wait to try it.

I bought some fresh greens for a salad and was then off for other stops.

Buttercream icing to die for!

One of the real finds of the morning was Sweet Tooth Bakery on Indy's Massachussett's Avenue. I had driven by the place before but had the time to stop Saturday. Cupcakes! Oh my goodness, they have cupcakes. I bought some red velevet cupcakes with rich, smooth and creamy butter cream icing. Owners Jennifer Taylor and Anastasia Duis told me they feature speciality cakes - extreme decorations might be another way of putting it.

Just an interesting side note. I asked the two nice ladies how a tiny little business in the downtown area prepares for the Feb. 5 Super Bowl? They've already had one order placed for 5,000 snickerdoodles! Wow!

I had lunch and a glass of wine at old friend Jill Ditmire's Mass Ave. Wine Shop. Then I picked up a friend and we drove to the far northside to Vine and Table - a gourmet grocery and wonderful wine shop. V&T has one of the best gourmet cheese selections I've seen in Indiana. I bought a bottle of Loire Valley Rose' over on the wine side.

The next stop was at Ashley Lockwood's Cork and Cracker. I mainly stopped in just to say hello but anyone reading this knows how that works! I left with three bottles of wine.

We stopped at Fresh Market to pick up some grocery items to wrap up our day. A stop I didn't make Saturday but is normally part of my routine is just down the street from Fresh Market. I frequently buy pasta at Nicole Taylor's Pasta and Market.

One of the most frequently asked questions on this blog and my newspaper column is where I buy my wine. I have about four shops I visit frequently but the two above are certainly great ones for value wines in the Indy area.

Additionaly, I hope this serves to motivate you to get out and support small businesses like these during these slow winter months!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Rico Suave in a Bottle ... Errrr ... Soave

2012-01-06T18:13:00.001-05:00

I became a big fan of Italian Soave on a hot Florida beach. It was very hot, I'm pale, I did what any self-respecting wino would do and that was head for liquor store.

I wanted a light white and found a Soave. I don't remember the producer, but they had a chiller and chilled it down for me. I sipped it on the beach, by the pool, and reading my summer vacation novel. I loved it. I've bought several since and find them super hot weather wines and excellent sippers.

Tonight, I opened to share the 2009 Soave Re Midas with my wine Dudes. We're doing an Italian night with some big red whoppers, so a nice light Soave seemed like a wonderful start to the evening.

First a little quick wine education. Soave is made from 100 percent Garganega grapes. Check the link if you want to learn more about this elegant little Northern Italy white wine.

The peach and pear on the front of the palate and the smooth mid palate made me easily forgive the disappearing finish. You'll get a hint of mineral but this 12 percent white wine is a sipper. Don't make it complicated at $10-$14 a bottle. Buy it, drink it and enjoy it.

Besides all that wine geeky stuff, how often do you get to post that famous Gerardo Mejía video?

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Big Sales, Michigan Thrives, Silly Labels

2012-01-05T17:10:00.001-05:00

Every now and then I stumble across some interesting wine stories that I think even novice wine drinkers might enjoy. And sometimes a post of "odds and ends" offers up tidbits that aren't enough for a newspaper column or blog entry.

So let's get to a list of interesting stuff:

Sales Are Up

Despite the economy and all the bad news you read daily Americans still enjoy raising a glass of wine. As a matter of fact, early indications are wine sales increased in 2011 by 14 percent! U.S. wine consumption took off in the early 90s. A surprising number of people credit the 60 Minutes television show and a story they did on French wine consumption and perceived health benefits.

Some of the buzz about Reservatrol has been silenced by recent science. But there remains boosters and believers that red wine in moderation does have health benefits. So keep drinking! My goal, is to live to 100. Ha!

U.S. Biggest Seller

You've seen it in your stores and it might not be everyone's first guess. But Barefoot wines are now the biggest selling brand in U.S. food stores. The brand, owned by E.& J. Gallo. The Barefoot wines were up 23 percent in sales last year. That is remarkable growth. It sells in most groceries for around $7.

Michigan Wine Boom Continues

I was really fascinated with the Michian wine industry when I made a three-day in the summer of 2010. I wrote this piece for Palate Press. The wines will really surprise first time visitors. I'm anixous to get back. The state's wineries are still getting good press, like this story in the Lansing Journal.

Sassy Bitch, Toads, Frogs & Other Critters

The proliferation of wine and savvy marketers has all sorts of funny, sassy, and risque labels reaching wine shop shelves. I stumbled across this interesting story in California's Santa Rosa Press-Democrat originally published in the New York Times. It's fun and educational on all things concerning wine labels.

Coming Soon ...

- I hate making promises because they don't always come true! But here goes anyway. I have several video interviews I conducted last summer in Oregon's Willamette Valley with some fantastic winemakers. The interviews were originally intended for a Palate Press video story that never came about. So I'm going to clip those down a bit and start posting them within a week or so. There is some really great stuff.

- I've been chatting with a number of people who have reached out to me with story ideas, including: A Michigan state professor who's bringing a new cold-climate grape to the state and a nationally known wine writer about value wine. I've made contact with a couple of Hoosiers in recent months for stories as well. If you like wine, you've seen the wine art - paintings, melted bottles and nicknacks. I met a woman in Indianapolis doing some nice pieces I hadn't seen before. And, I'm trying to arrange an interview with Indiana's top selling wine retailer.

- Now this one is really a tease. I'm waiting on word about a possible trip to one of the most iconic wine producing nations in the world. If this one works out, it will provide a real bounty of story ideas for all the outlets where I write. Stay tuned!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Long Time Between Chilean Carmeneres

2012-01-03T16:56:00.002-05:00

Chile, Argentina and others in South America are producing some outstanding varietal red wines and red wine blends. I love Malbec and Bonarda from south of the border but I'm still developing a taste for Carmenere.

I popped open Falernia 2007 Reserva Carmenere the other night and it had that dark purplish color the grape is known for and a pleasant nose.

I liked the rich dark fruit and thought it was pretty smooth wine until I got to the finish. Then, someone lit a match! The alcohol seemed way too pronounced against the dark fruit flavors. I went searching for the bottle to find the wine comes in at 15 percent alcohol. For me and this grape, that's a bit hot.

The grapes come from Chile's Elqui Valley and the Vicuna area. It sees about a half year in oak. It's a decent value at $15. The acid was still pretty strong 24 hours after opening.

The wine has a nice mouth feel until you get to that finish. Carmenere is a great grape for wine exploration. It's usually very affordable, a bigger wine, but with a nice big fruit component. The alcohol in this one will scare some people off. Nevertheless, it's a good value and a decent introduction to Carmenere. This arrived as a trade sample with another Carmenere, I'll be anxious to try the other!

(Falernia 2007 Reserva Carmenere, SRP $15, Trade Sample, No Recommendation)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Personal Manifesto: Time to Step It Up!

2012-01-02T15:32:00.003-05:00

So I wrote the obligatory Thanksgiving wine column, New Year's sparkling wine piece, and even the end of the year "best of" lists.

In the immortal words of the late Peggy Lee, "Is that all there is?"

I'm not about to write a New Year's Resolution column, instead this is a bit reflective and even self-criticism: I haven't done much with this blog and want to it move forward.

I just like this shot! Ha!

Penning 26 newspaper columns a year takes my best effort. I'm proud of my efforts and have even been known to brag a little. I've done some good reporting for the newspaper column while some wine writers don't seem to know the meaning of the word.

My stories for Plate Press have been some of my best efforts. Most blog visitors and even newspaper readers probably don't know I write a quarterly column for Madison, a quarterly magazine published by the Anderson Herald Bulletin. The magazine goes to higher-income homes in East Central Indiana. I write wine stories focused on higher-priced wines for that publication.

This is my 495th blog post so I'll hit some sort of milestone soon. I need to be writing 3 times a week or more to generate serious interest. My blog has done very well when I've done wine trips, or some of my wine travel. But it languishes the rest of the time.

My wine writing is a profit-loss loser. But it's supposed to be that way for a few more years. I'm paid for the Palate Press stories and the magazine efforts. I hope to do more with my wine interest in retirement, which is still a few years away.

I've read several prominent bloggers lately lament about wine blogs. Many have written how poorly written or uninteresting most blogs are. I agree. This blog falls into that category too often. My criticism is too much wine writing is for wine geeks like me and not the general public. That's an entirely different topic for a soon-to-be future post.

My frustration with my blog is reflected in the numbers. I had 105 entries in 2011. But I managed 151 in 2010 and 184 in 2009. I started the blog in October of 2009.

I want to do better and bring more opinion to current issues, reflect on things going on in the wine world that will matter to readers. Anyone who knows me, knows I'm one opinionated SOB. Yet, I don't bring that to the column and blog often enough.

The gloves are coming off and I think it will be fun. I'll still do reviews and share wine news for those who don't have time to digest all the stuff I see in my inbox. But I want to ad an edge of fun and opinion.

So no New Year resolution column or blog - I promise!

Instead, a pledge to work a little harder to bring more readers to Grape Sense - A Glass Half Full. The only way one can do that is to have something to say or share. Invite your friends. It should be fun.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Some Great 2011 Wines Above Usual Price Point

2011-12-29T09:55:00.004-05:00

My newspaper column, and much of what I do, focuses on value wine – I still drink a good amount of better wines that many readers will enjoy.

My real price break for value wine comes at about $20. I define “the better stuff” for my budget at $25-$50. I have always kept some ‘better stuff’ around the house but it’s not wine I usually open on a Tuesday night. These wines are for weekends and when having guests over for a glass of good wine.

I love some of the wines I wrote about in the newspaper column posted here, but there is no doubt there is a substantial quality difference when you double up the price.

Here are some notes and links on wines I enjoyed over the past year at a little higher price point. And, these are in no particular order.

The view outside Penner Ash's tasting room

Penner Ash 2006 Willamette Valley – A great wine from one of Oregon’s signature producers. This is a $45 bottle of Pinot that just never disappoints. Penner Ash wines always have a beautiful lingering finish that is lush as it is satisfiying. This bottle is full flavored but a medium-style Pinot Noir. This wine scored a 90 from Robert Parker. Penner Ash is widely distributed. I drank this wine in January of 2011 and then visited Penner Ash in July. It’s a must stop if you visit Willamette Valley. Penner Ash has great Pinot and fabulous views for your camera!

Claudia Springs 2007 Zinfandel – I traveled to California’s Mendocino County in January and this winery was a real surprise. Bob Klindt is making some marvelous Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. On the front of the palate this $24 wine had cedar, cranberry, and currant. I liked the dusty feel in the mouth. They only made 292 cases of this wine so it's not going to be easy to find. His Zin was a big hit at last year’s huge Zin-fest in San Francisco. Our press group had a delightful visit. Watch a video I recorded of Bob talking about his wines here.

Gary Eberle

Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah – This 50-50 blend is a big ol’ glass of beautiful wine. Big plum flavors, hints of vanilla, and a really plush mouth feel makes it easy to understand why it’s been honored time again in all the wine press. Eberle wines are widely available. This bottle sells for $29. Gary Eberle makes a great lineup of juice. He is also a real pioneer. Read more from this September newspaper column.

Ledgestone 2008 Frontenac – This was perhaps the biggest surprise of 2011 for me. I traveled Wisconsin in late April for a story on Wisconsin wines for Palate Press. I had never had Frontenac, a cold climate grape, and frankly was plenty skeptical. I was taken with its strong sour cherry flavor and great balance at Tim Abel’s winery. This is regional winemaking at its best. They can’t grow Cabernet and shouldn’t try. This $28 bottle of Frontenac was a real revelation.

Don Lange, chatting in July 2011

Lange 2005 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – I’ve written many times about Lange wines in my newspaper column, blog, and the quarterly magazine Madison. I’ve visited 3-4 times, including this July, and always come away very impressed. I opened this 2005 treasure this year and was again just blown away. It had dark blueberry, blackberry and a smoky spice that I just loved. And like all Dundee Hill Pinot, the Freedom Hill had that wonderful earthiness I love. It’s premier wine at a premier price worth every nickel at $60.

Justin Vineyards 2008 Cabernet – This was simply the best glass of Cabernet I had all year. And it comes in at a surprising $25. The wine had cherry, caramel, and chocolate throughout it’s beautiful and rich mouth feel. The tannins were balanced and it paired magnificently with a grilled Bison Ribeye. I first had Justin Cab at a fine Paso Robles restaurant in 2010. I tasted the reserve which was $55. This wine is just as good. Go find some if you like Cabernet.

Oreste Strappiano 2009 Langhe Rosso – It’s really difficult to find affordable Nebbiolo wines. So when I wandered into Vino 100 in Columbus, Oh., and saw “Langhe” on a label I had to buy it. The Langhe region is known as the primo region in the Piedmont for the Nebbiolo grape. This $25 blend has Nebbiolo, Docetto, and Barberra. The wine was surprisingly light and nicely balanced. It just might have been the best Italian I tasted all year – and that includes a few much more expensive Tuscan Brunellos!

Oregon’s Willamette Valley, July 2011 – I spent three days in Oregon wine country and tasted more great Pinot than I can note here. I brought back a case of wine, and most of it remains in my wine storage cooler. Read about some great wines and experiences here, here, and here.

Mendocino, January 2011 - Another wine trip that yielded more than a few remarkable wines was that visit to Mendocino. I loved the Claudia Springs wines and others. The real hit for me was Coro Mendocino, a Zinfandel blend. I wrote a piece for Palate Press but the wine is hard to get in the Midwest. A few of the producers do have midwestern distributors but its worth a try at $37 if you can find it.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Grape Sense's 2011 Top Wine Picks

2011-12-29T09:50:00.003-05:00

Top 10/year-end lists are unavoidable at this time of year. Grape Sense has featured a Top 10 list for three years so here it is for 2011.

The Top 10 wines are value wines and are widely available in Indiana, Ohio, and Illinois. The wines taste above their price point and represent great value. I’d gladly serve this 10-pack to any guest in my home.

You’ll find more white wine in this list than any previous year. Great, and unusual, white wines have become a new passion.

No. 10 – La Vieille Ferme Blanc – A French white wine made of Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, and two lesser-known French grapes has nice acidity and a hint of lime. ($5-$9).

No. 9 - Bonterra 2008 Mendocino Zinfandel – Inexpensive Zin isn’t that hard to find in supermarkets or wine shops. But the Mendocino Bonterra label delivers one of the best full-flavored Zins you’ll find for the price. ($11).

No. 8 – Brassfield Estate Serenity - This is a very nice white wine blend. Serenity mixes Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Gewurtztraminer and Semillon. It comes from Napa Valley. The wine has a distinctive pineapple and apple nose and taste. ($10-$14)

No. 7 – Buried Cane 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon – A great value Cabernet that’s 75 percent Cab and 25 percent Malbec from Washington state. It has dark fruit, richness, good acidity and finish. ($13)

No. 6 – Concannon Crimson & Clover – A new wine in 2011, the fifth to Concannon’s big-selling Conservancy line. A blend of Petit Sirah, Cab, Syrah, and Zin isn’t for the faint of heart. ($15)

No. 5 – Turtle Run Dry Traminette – Indiana’s wine industry has come a long way and, in part, thanks to Traminette. Most of the Indiana’s Traminette, similar to Gewurztraminer, is done in a sweet style. Jim Pfieffer at Turtle run is one of few to make a dry version. It rocks! ($12)

No. 4 - Chorum Sangiovese - Sangiovese is the great Italian grape at the heart of Chianti wines. This has sour cherry and a light feel on the palate. It’s one of the most drinkable Sangiovese wines you’ll find. ($10-$19)

No. 3 – Tikal Patriota – Bonarda and Malbec make up this wonderful Argentinian wine. It has cherry, raspberry, and goes beautifully with grilled or smoked meats. It is a critic favorite, consistently scoring 90-plus points. ($17-$19)

No. 2 – Charles & Charles Rose - This is the first white or Rose’ to ever crack my year-ending Top 10 list. This Washington Rose is a collaboration between two premier winemakers. It’s 100 percent Syrah – big flavor with sage, raspberry, and a hint of Jolly Rancher. ($10-$12)

No. 1 – Alain Juame & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins – This is one of the best value wines I’ve tasted in three years of wine writing. The Cotes du Rhone wine is 70 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, and 10 percent Mourvedre – a traditional French GSM wine. It has a wonderful red berry aroma. It’s rich, perfectly smooth, and silky with just the right amount of spice. It is fabulous French wine. ($15)

Just for fun, here are my picks from the past two years:

2010: George Deboeuf’s Julienas, Domaine de Niza Languedoc 2005, J. Lohr Cabernet, Etim Seleccion, Montebuena 2009 Rioja, Errazuriz Cab, Altos Malbec, Il Fiorino 2008 Chianti, Este de Bodegas Alto Almanzora, and my 2010 No. 1 pick: Durigutti Malbec .

2009: Domain Lafarge Catalan Cote EST, Turtle Run’s Dry Tortuga, Burgan’s 2007 Albarino; Dona Paula 2007 Malbec, Creta Roble 2006, Pasanau Ceps Nous 2006 Priorat, Milbrandt 2006 Traditions Cabernet Sauvignon, Domain Lafarge Grenache Noir, Klinker Brick 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel, and my No. 1 pick: Patrick Lesec’s Cotes du Rhone Bouquet.

Howard Hewitt, Crawfordsville, IN., writes every other week for 18 Midwestern newspapers. Write him at: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

What's New Year's Without Sparkling Wine?

2011-12-28T10:10:00.002-05:00

A wine writer’s occupational hazards include obligatory New Year’s columns on sparkling wines and year-end ‘best of” lists.

It’s fun to review the previous year and pick out a Top 10 – something you’ll read in the next Grape Sense. It’s tougher to write about sparkling wines when it isn’t a favorite. Still, it’s the time of year a lot of questions come up about a New Year’s sparkler.

After a little more than three years and 82 newspaper columns, only two were about sparkling wines. Some of that is repeated here along with two best bet suggestions.

Any discussion about sparkling wine has to start with French Champagne. It’s not cheap, there is lots of it, and it can range from plain awful to magic in a glass. You can buy the Dom Perignon for around $130 a bottle. You can take a step up from that and go with Louis Roederer’s Cristal in a crystal bottle if you’re prepared to shell out $350.

But let’s face it; most of us aren’t buying that sort of wine.

If you want something more than the grocery’s usual Asti-Spumante (which isn’t bad), then you have to get into your nearest wine shop and rely on the merchant’s expertise.

A good place to start is with an Italian Prosecco. It’s generally lighter than champagne, less alcohol content, but you still get the bubbles! And you can find pretty decent Prosecco at $15-$20.

Another great pick is a Spanish Cava. Cava hails from the region around Barcelona. Cava sparkling wines have become very popular and can be found in the $10-$20 range.

If you want a good U.S. sparkling wine (only France’s Champagne region can call its juice ‘Champagne’) there are good options. California’s Korbel and Washington’s St. Michelle have value sparklers and more expensive bubbling wines that will be great for Dec. 31.

Roederer Estate in Mendocino’s Anderson Valley makes really beautiful sparkling wine at a higher price point. I tasted several of their sparkling wines during a January 2011 trip to Mendocino and all were really beautiful. The Roederer Estate sparklers range from $20-$150.

Probably the easiest to find and safest choice, that will delight your palate, is California’s Gloria Ferrer’s Sonoma Brut. The wonderful and affordable Ferrer Brut is made of the traditional blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The bubbly has a nice soft or almost creamy feel in your mouth. It tastes much better than its easy-to-digest price point of $16-$20.

My top choice for your New Year’s Eve is widely available and one of the best wines I tasted this year. Banfi Rosa Regale is a delicious Italian sparkling wine. It has strong raspberry with a rich mid-palate. The bubbles are somewhat restrained. The dark cranberry color is festive and beautiful. The alcohol is a ridiculously low 7 percent. The suggested retail is $20.

You can’t go wrong with the Gloria Ferrer Brut or Banfi Sparkling Rose’. Try either or both and celebrate the New Year!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Very Merry Grape Sense Christmas

2011-12-22T08:27:00.002-05:00

One of the joy's of this holiday season was helping arrange the Holiday Greeting for work. I work at Wabash College, a private liberal arts college for men, in the marketing/public affairs department.

We don't always do a lot of warm and fuzzy but I thought using the Glee Club made great sense for the holidays. The bosses agreed and we put together this greeting. I hope you do have a great holiday with family and friends. I hope this short video will make it feel a little warmer.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Dudes Taste Four Pinot Noirs for the Holidays

2011-12-19T19:10:00.017-05:00

Dude Alex

There is nothing better than enjoying great wines with great friends. I've written before, and even done a couple of videos, with my wine drinking buddies. We call ourselves "Dudes on the Porch."

We started about a year and a half ago gathering every 2-4 weeks and drinking some wines. We graduated to theme nights and dinners. We are still doing it and still having just as much fun.

We recently enjoyed our holiday edition of 'Dudes' by planning a Pinot Noir night. We had an inexpensive Burgundy, a mid-priced Napa Pinot, and two Oregon Pinots.

We had a spread of some Italian meats, cheese, a great French goat cheese, crackers, and were about as wine geeky as we ever get.

Dude in Training - Cameron

In other words, we had a ball. I constantly encourage wine newcomers to get a group of friends together and drink some new wines, old favorites and just try things!

Let's go through the four wines and I'll share the group's thoughts. I was having way too much fun to play journalist and take "quotes." But, I did take enough notes to get a good handle on the group thinking about each of the four Pinot Noirs.

We don't always agree but we ended up with pretty similar feelings about each of our Pinot Noirs. We had four of our five regular Dudes and a 22-year-old college senior who has joined us on a number of occasions.

Bouchard Pere & 2008 Reserve Bourgogne - This would fall into the category of a basic entry-level Burgundy. There was very little wrong with it just not enough right to give it a recommendation.

We opened it shortly before drinking and that was a mistake. The wine did improve the longer it was open. At times the wine just didn't seem to have much going on - typical of bargain Burgundy. But with a little time we all detected some strawberry. It was very light bodied and a nice cherry red. There was little finish and not the spicy or earthy finish you'd get on many Pinot Noirs.

Dude Patrick brought this one and couldn't remember exactly what he paid for it but knew it was around $15-$16. (Not Recommended)

Beringer Napa Valley Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir - We struggled with this wine more than any of the evening. It had a short decant and improved with all the oxygen it could absorb. Many will see the Beringer name and think only of the supermarket wines. But Beringer makes wines at other price points as well.

Dude Alex brought the Beringer. I found it online anywhere from $16-$24 - and that's a pretty wide range for the same bottle of juice.

I thought the wine was disorganized. There was no mid-palate but all of us got pronounced oak on the finish - big oak. That is something many people are not going to like but others will appreciate the added structure. For my palate, the Beringer's oak was just too much. I love oak in Cabs and big, big red wines but want my Pinot really well balanced.

Alex got big strawberry after about an hour of having the bottle open and we all agreed. It had all the hints of expected dark fruit but not much terroir or spice.

Still, this might be interesting in another year or so and with a longer decant, perhaps up to two hours. It wasn't bad. It's just not that hard to find better Pinot in that price range. (Recommended)

The Dudes are admitted Pinotphiles and big fans of Oregon Pinot Noir. So we had two great Oregon Pinots at a big price point that really sparked some of our best wine conversation in a long time. Patrick brought a 2008 Cooper Mountain Vineyard Pinot. I dug into my hidden stash of great Pinot and pulled out a 2008 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot from the Dundee Hills.

Cooper Mountain 2008 Mountain Terrior 5 Element Series - We all loved this wine. This is a big fruit-forward Pinot with a really soft finish. The guys were getting a hint of citrus off the mid-palate and back of the palate that was delightful as it was unique.

Patrick described his wine as a Pinot "with layers of dark fruit with a bit of a bite on the back with acid." I can't really disagree with that.

Cooper Mountain sits in the Willamette Valley but is one of the closest wineries to Portland in all of the region. This bottle retails around $45 normally but Patrick picked it up as part of a case discount for $36.

This is fruit-forward wonderful Pinot Noir. It's certainly more widely distributed than the next wine. (Highly Recommended)

The setup for Pinot night!

Winderlea 2008 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot Noir - In the sense of full disclosure, this one of my consistent favorites. I have several favorites actually, but Winderlea is a wonderful story and marvelous wine.

The Winderlea Pinot is a $50 bottle of wine. Alex was the first to utter an opinion and offered "supple" as an adjective. Alex also called it understated.

I loved the floral notes and beautiful dark fruit and finish. This wine shows the terrior of the Dundee Hills ... you can just taste that wonderful red dirt that makes these great wines. I gush about the Winderlea because I think it's just that good.

The Dudes thought the perfect wine would be Cooper Mountian's fruit forward style with Winderlea's supple, spicy, and earthy finish. I'd like to taste that wine but for now, I'm glad there is more Winderlea in the wine cooler.

(Very Highly Recommended)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Some Great, Easy-to-Find Red Wines

2011-12-12T19:52:00.003-05:00

Let's take a look at some really nice red wines. Most of these are pretty easy to find and certainly plentiful in Indiana and neighboring states.

I've tasted some great wines lately and picked up a lot of wine for home. It's the time of year many of us are entertaining and you certainly want nice wines to pour your guests. Any of the wines reviewed in this post would fill that bill nicely.

Cameron Hughes Lot 247 2009 Cabernet - Cameron Hughes is a true phenom. It's now available in most states and represents great value. To make a long story short, Cameron Hughes buys excess wine from California producers with a confidentiality agreement and sells it at a price far below normal high-quality california wines.

This was my first CH Cabernet and for $18 I thought it was really nice wine. If I had tasted it blind, I'd have guessed in the $18-$30 range. It was very nice Cabernet and I wouldn't have been surprised based on taste only if someone told me it sold for $30-$45. But there is so much Cab in that price range it's tough to say this one tasted above the SRP of $18. It was good wine. And it was much better than most of what you can find in the $14-$16 range.

If you jump to the Cameron Hughes website you'll see details about this wine and how the winery that provided the juice starts their wines at about $60. I liked this Cab a lot but just didn't see it at the $60 price point. The wine has big fruit, soft tannins and all the characteristics of a more expensive wine.

The label also has a $15 Meritage and a $13 Rhone blend that I thought were fabulous. The Rhone blend, in particular, tasted like a $20-$30 French wine.

Cameron Hughes is definitely worth a try. The odds are you're going to get something that tastes better to far better than the price point. There are 30 red wines and 11 whites listed on the site so the buyers are clearly working the world.

(Cameron Hughes 247 Napa Valley 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, $18, Recommended)

Vecchia Cantina 2007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - A little Sangiovese anyone? And by little, I do mean mouth feel. This 100 percent Sangiovese wine was pretty limp when I opened it but opened up with reasonable and nice fruit after a little time out of the bottle.

It was really quite pleasant with a little pasta. I sat and sipped a second glass after dinner. It's certainly not nearly as acidic or over-bearing as some Sangiovese (the poorly made ones, at least) often can be even after a decant. It was rich and silky even it a bit unremarkable. I did enjoy it but quickly forgot it afterwards.

It might be a little tough to find this one but you certainly can find the Montepulciano wines in most wine shops!

(Vecchia Cantina Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, $16-$18, Recommended)

Vino Robles 2008 Red - The winery calls this wine the Power of 4 and they're not kidding. The wine is made from Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, and Mourvedre. If you like your wine powerful, you're going to lie Vino Robles.

This winery is located in Paso Robles which is known for it's full-bodied red wines. You're going to get big black fruit flavors and a hint of holiday spice - like cinnamon or nutmeg. The fruit is huge with softer tannins.

If you drink much Petite Sirah you're definitely going to pick it up in this blend. I bought this bottle in Ohio and couldn't quite determine if they have an Indiana distributor. It is available in Illinois.

This wine won't suit many palates. But if you're looking for wine with a steak, chili, or hearty stew, it will be a fine match.

(Vino Robles 2008 Red, SRP $16, Recommended)

Justin Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon - I loved this wine. As a matter of fact, this one of the best bottles of wine I've tasted this year. I visited Paso Robles in the fall of 2010 and Deborah Baldwin (Justin's wife) dined with the traveling press corp visiting. She poured their Reserve Cabernet that night and it was fabulous. I was able to pick up this entry level Cab near the end of the trip.

As opposed to the Cameron Hughes' Cab, this $25 Cabernet drinks like a $50 Cab.It had cherry and caramel, chocolate and beautiful richness. The tannins were well balanced but present even after a 2-hour decant.

I served the wine with a Texas-spice rubbed Bison Ribeye off the grill and the pairing was simply delicious. Justin wines are available in most states. This is unbelievable Cabernet for the average palate at this price.

(Justin Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, $25, Very Highly Recommended)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Choosing Wine as a Holiday Gift

2011-12-09T12:28:00.001-05:00

A bottle of wine makes a lovely Christmas gift when attending parties, calling on friends, or for that wine lover next door.

But, what should you buy? There are a couple of things you can do to assure success.

- Does the person enjoy wine? Are they a regular wine drinker or just an occasional glass?

- Does the person enjoy red more than white or vice-versa?

- What are you willing to spend on a bottle of wine?

With no offense to grocery stores or even liquor stores, the first piece of advice is get to a wine shop or a liquor store with a wide selection and a knowledgeable staff.

Almost all good wine shops are a lot more interested in making you happy than just selling you a bottle for five bucks higher than you intended on spending. Small retail businesses of all type are totally dependent on repeat customers.

Let’s talk in general about some wines that would be great gifts. In this Grape Sense, I’m only recommending wines I have tried in recent years.

If your friend is a Chardonnay fan try to find something different than the stereotypical California oak-laden Chard. Ask the sales person for an unoaked Chardonnay or a Chardonnay that is a blend of oaked and unoaked juice. There is a huge selection of good Chardonnay under $18.

If this is a special friend get to a wine shop with a higher-end inventory and buy a French Chablis or White Burgundy. The 2008 Domain Joseph Drouhin Chablis is outstanding wine lighter on the palate with bright acidity. Drouhin offers several price points. The White Burgundy will be more expensive but be one of the nicest glasses of white wine your friend may ever enjoy.

If you’re feeling adventurous look for a nice white blend. Sokol Blossor, Oregon, makes a delightful white with intense fruit and lasting palate impression called Evolution. It can be found in most wine shops at $15. Caymus’ Conundrum is a sweeter blend of several grapes that gives you tangy green apple, tangerine, and floral characteristics. The Condundrum normally retails $20-$25.

It’s easy to pick a Cabernet Sauvignon off the shelf and throw a bow on it. But don’t overlook the many beautiful red blends that are easier to drink, affordable, and go with just about any meal.

I’d direct consumers to Washington State red wines or California’s Paso Robles region. Paso specializes in the traditionally French Rhone grapes. It would be a unique gift that will impress your guests. You might look around for Ortman’s Cuvee Eddy, a wonderful Paso blend that sells for under $20.

I think of all red wine Pinot Noir makes the most beautiful gift. I’ve written often that good Pinot is very hard to find for under $20. There are a few labels that are nice wines – Robert Mondavi, Mark West, Drouhin’s La Floret, Mirassou, and Dashwood all come in under $15.

But it’s Christmas so splurge a little. Lange Winery’s Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is stunning for $22. It drinks far beyond its price point. There are many Oregon Pinot wines in the $20-$30 range which would impress.

And finally don’t forget the Rose’ wines. With the varied shades of red and pink they make a festive addition to your holiday table. A dry Rose can pair with just about any food or appetizer and makes a great sipper for holiday parties. Rose is not expensive wine. Try Charles & Charles from Washington state for a wine that is worthy of any table. It sells for less than $15.

If you want a very special treat, again head to the nicer wine shop and pick up a Rose from France's Provence region. Provence winemakers produce some of the world’s best Rose’ wines. They are typically a light salmon color. The wine is quite dry with beautifully balanced fruit and acidity.

Good to great Provence Rose’ can be found for $20-$50. If you’ve never had a great dry Rose’, one of the Provence wines will totally rock your wine world.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Wide Variety of Wines for Review (12-1-11)

2011-12-01T18:38:00.004-05:00

Who says no one makes a great $11 wine? Well, sometimes I do. But sometimes we find one that works at the price point. Sometimes, you find three that make some sense!

Lots of Italian wine tonight and no real stinkers in the group.

I'm writing tonight while sipping on some Paso Robles Ortman Cuvee Eddy - a great $17 bottle of wine. Unfortunately, the Ortman's have announced they will be ceasing operations later this month. It goes to show that a great product, growing sales, and a dynamic wine story isn't always enough. It's tough selling wine out there!

Here are some you might like:

Banfi Centine 2009 Rosso - The Centine label is generally very easy to find and value priced. The Rosso is 60 percent Sangiovese, 20 percent Cabernet, and 20 Merlot.

This wine has big red fruit and spice but not a lot of balance but the finish is not off-putting. Wine Spectator gave this value bottle a very respectible 87 points. A lot of people may like it for its low 12.5 percent alcohol. It's not unusual to find this bottle under $11.

(Banfi Centine 2009 Rosso, $11, Trade Sample, Recommended)

Banfi Centine 2010 Bianco - This nice white is 40 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 30 percent Pinot Grigio and 30 percent Chardonnay.

I liked the white and the Rose (which I have reviewed from previous vintages) better than the red. The white was a little on the fruity sweet side for my palate but it's clearly a wine many would enjoy.

It had tons of pear and lime for my palate and similar low alcohol at 12-12.5 percent.

(Banfi Centine 2010 Bianco, $11, Trade Sample, Recommended)

Domaine Chene 2009 Bourgogne - It's hard to find drinkable Burgundy under $14 but the Chene makes a run at it. I bought this bottle on the recommendation of a sales person at Indianapolis' Kahn's Fine Wine.

This was typically Burgundian with a very light and earthy mouth feel. If you're used to California Pinot or even Oregon, you might not like this one for its nearly non-existent fruit. This Burgundy is about terrior.

Unless you just really want to try Burgundy at a cheap price, there are plenty of other Pinot Noir choices in a good wine shop. Save a few dollars and buy your first Burgundy at a little higher price point.
(Domaine Chene Bourgogne, $14.95, Not Recommended)

Scagliola 2010 Barbera - A great bottle of $18 wine! I've never consumed much Barbera but I'm ready to buy more after this one bottle.

This Italian red from Piedmont had bright fruit and acidity. I liked the somewhat lighter mouth feel for an Italian wine. You still get some rich dark fruit on the plate without the heavy after taste so many red wines will give you.

This is not a wine for your pasta and red sauce but it would be great with salami, crackers, and Italian cheeses.

The wine can be found in the $13-$18 range.

(Scagliola 2010 Barbera, $17.99, Highly Recommended)

Masi Modello Delle Venezie - Here is an Italian blend that most wine lovers will really embrace.

This is a blend from Veneto, Italy, that can be found under $12 but up to as much as $16 or $17. It's made moslty from grapes most aren't going to be familiar with - Refosco and Raboso. It has a beautiful ruby red color in the glass and a nice pleasant nose of ripe fruit. This wine is another lighter style wine that's dry but quite fragrant with cherry and red raspberry fruit.

(Masi Modello 2008 Delle Venezie Rosso, $11.99, Highly Recommended)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Column: Guidelines for Holiday Turkey Wine Picks

2011-12-01T15:25:00.000-05:00

NOTE: I'm tardy in getting my last newspaper wine column posted to the blog. So tardy it didn't occur to me until writing the one due for publication today!

There are thousands of wine bloggers, many wine writers and still a handful of newspaper wine columnists. They’re all writing about Thanksgiving/Christmas and wine pairing this time of year. I’ve done the same in recent years, and think it’s important to offer a little help when it’s most needed

Instead of a long list of wine selections, (I’ll offer a few recommendations throughout), how about some general guidelines to help you pick the right wines for your turkey dinner whether its Thanksgiving or Christmas.

Thanksgiving is about family so make it a festive occasion. Try a light sparkling wine before the big meal. It’s sure to be a hit. Look for a Spanish Cava, Italian Prosecco, or Gloria Ferrer’s delightful Sonoma County sparklers. For something really festive and delicious, I love Banfi Rosa Regale. The Banfi wine sells for right at $20, has just seven percent alcohol, and is delicious.

Wines with a higher acidity are going to pair better with fowl. There will be lots of different flavors on your holiday table and you want something that will hold up to everything served.

Consider buying several different wines if you have a large guest list. Most Thanksgiving family feasts feature a veritable cornucopia of dishes, so why serve just one wine?

First, there are no right picks. If you like it drink it. With that out of the way, it’s a good idea to rule out big red wines. Cabernet, Petite Sirah, Merlot, and Malbec are going to overpower the bird and side dishes.

Speaking of side dishes, consider the flavors and spices used to make the sides when picking a wine – not just the bird.

Wines with a higher acidity are going to pair better with fowl. There will be lots of different flavors on your holiday table and you want something that will hold up to everything served.

Consider buying several different wines if you have a large guest list. Most Thanksgiving family feasts feature a veritable cornucopia of dishes, so why serve just one wine?

When it comes time for dinner there is such a wide variety of choices. Instead of a Chardonnay, which can be over-powering and boring, try a semi-dry to dry Riesling? Gewurztraminer has become a very popular Thanksgiving wine in recent years. The wonderful spicy and floral aromas and taste are perfect for light fall fare.

If you want to support local pour an Indiana-made Traminette, a close cousin to the Gewurzt grape. Most Hoosier winemakers produce a sweet to semi-sweet version of the state grape that will work well with dinner. Just go to the semi-sweet or dry side if possible. Turtle Run Winery makes a dynamite dry Traminette if you can find it available.

A dry rose’ would also be a bold and delicious pairing.

If you like red there are more choices than Pinot Noir, a classic pick. While many might suggest the seasonal Beaujolais Nouveau, I always suggest a Beaujolais Grand Cru wine. Pick up a Beaujolais Morgon or Fleurie. A personal favorite is Georges Duboeuf’s Julienas which is widely available at $11-$15.

If you insist on Pinot you can’t go wrong on the pairing. I’d recommend staying on the lighter side and going up to the $15 price point. There are several drinkable Pinots around $10. New Zealand’s Dashwood, California’s Mark West, and the classic Burgundy of Domain Joseph Drouhin. Drouhin’s LaForet Pinot sells for just $10. Pick up Lange Vineyard’s Willamette Valley Pinot for around $20 for a real treat. The 2009 Lange Pinot is unbelievable wine for a 20-dollar bill.

Finally, don’t hesitate to do something a little crazy. I’m not a big fruit wine fan but that doesn’t mean that you can’t find some well-made fruit wines. Consider pouring a little dry cranberry wine with dinner. Cherry wine might have the same fun factor.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Wine Review Roundup (11-21-11)

2011-11-21T18:50:00.012-05:00

Time to do some quick reviews on recently consumed wines. It's Thanksgiving time and I'll post my wine tips column to the blog tomorrow (11-22-11).

Georges Dugoeuf 2011 Beaujolais Nouveau - A few friends and I popped open the third-Thursday-of-November specialty and were pleasantly suprised. I've sang the praises of the Beaujolais Grand Cru wines on numerous occasional while generally dismissive of the Nouveau. You will find that pattern with a lot of wine critics. And if you want a wine with a little more character and balance, the Grand Cru Beaujolais is still the better buy and a great value.

All of that being said, I really liked the 2011 Nouveau and so did my wine-drinking friends. This wine had less of the musty characteristic that often plagues Gamay for my palate. The fruit seemed fresher than the two previous years and there was a little spice or pepper.
Beaujolais producers always seem to proclaim the latest vintage as 'best ever" or other such platitudes. I've tasted the Nouveau for 3-4 straight years and this is easily the best of the batch. It's easy to find and very affordable at $10. And yes, it does make a good Thanksgiving pairing. This is an excellent choice if you have non-wine drinkers or not sure what to put on the table.

(Georges Duboeuf 2011 Beaujolais Nouveau, $10 - Trade Sample, Recommended)

Tuesday, Nov. 22 Update: I just read a great piece in the Los Angeles Times about the Beaujolais region and its wines. You can read the story here.

Oreste Strappiano 2009 Langhe Rosso - Wow! What a fabulous bottle of wine. This is a table blend from the very best region of Italy's Piedmont region. The wine features Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, and Barbera.

I could find very little on the internet about the winery or the wine but didn't need any support to proclaim this one of the more unique and tasty glasses of wine that I've enjoyed in a long time. Now, with Nebbiolo and Barbera you'd expect a bigger wine. But this was light and rich on the palate and in some ways reminded me of Pinot Noir.

The acid was really kept in check and the wine was beautifully balanced. I paid about $25 for this bottle at Vino 100 in Columbus, Ohio. I've not seen it in Indiana but would love to buy some more.

(Oreste Strappiano 2009 Lange Rosso, $25, Very Highly Recommended.

Buried Cane 2008 Heartwood Red Wine - This is a really nice blend of 78 percent Syrah, 10 percent Grenache, 7 percent Mourvedre, 5 percent Counoise from Washington State.

The majority of the Buried Cane line (which I have reviewed a few previously) is value priced at $14 this wine is worth the $25 price tag.

These Rhone style blends can be all over the place but the rich Washington grapes and winemakers' skill makes this a great red wine. I liked the lush dark fruit and hints of chocolate. It was big and bold enough to please that crowd but smooth enough for any wine drinker. Another dynamite effort from the Buried Cane folks.

(Buried Cane 2008 Heartwood Red, $25, Trade Sample, Recommended)

Paolo Scavino Rosso Vino da Tavola - Here is another Italian with the same grape blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto that's quite nice but not the same quality as the Oreste Strappiano above -- except this producer throws in some Merlot to bring it all together or mask the differences. Now despite that cheap shot, this is pretty good Italian table wine and available in Indiana and other midwestern states.

This is good wine for under $15 and will definitely pair with some great pasta. It is pretty acidic to my palate and I'm a guy who normally likes acid.

This is a nice wine but if you can find the Strappiano - and will spring another $10 - the Strappiano is far more than $10 better!

(Paolo Scavino Rosso Vino da Tavola, $14, Recommended)

Ancient Peaks 2010 Sauvignon Blanc - If you like a nice tart white wine with those sweet seafood dishes you're going to really like Ancient Peaks Sauv Blanc. Count me in.

This Paso Robles winery really serves up a tart Sauv Blanc with prounounced grapefruit and citrus. The acid backs off a little as the bottle opens up. I paired it with a relatively simple shrimp salad with a mayonaise base and some herbs and it was really great.

Now, this wine will be tart for some drinkers but paired with seafood, it's very satisfying.

(Ancient Peaks 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, $14, Trade Sample, Recommended)
Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Great Glass of Italy's Sangiovese

2011-11-12T21:49:00.000-05:00

It's a struggle to find a great glass of Sangiovese at a reasonable price point, partially because there is so much wine on the market.

I found a new appelation with the wine I opened tonight and a very pleasing glass of Italian wine. Montecucco is a little-known but large region in Tuscany that runs almost to the Italian coast.I opened a bottle of Chorum 2007 Sangiovese.

The wine must be at least 85 percent Sangiovese but this one was 100 percent of the signature Italian grape. This makes the wine much like a Chianti Classico.

I loved the smooth and rich sour cherry flavor of this wine with unusually mild tannins for a Sangiovese wine. This wine usually retails around $18-$19 but I picked it up from the online flash site wtso.com for $9.99. At that price, this wine is a steal.

Simply put, it's one of the most drinkable 100 percent Sangiovese wines you're going to find. Wine Enthusiast gave this juice a very fair 88 points. If you come accross it, try it. It's good Italian wine.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Sone Great (and Cheap) Wine Picks

2011-11-10T15:50:00.004-05:00

The phone rings, then a text message, and sometimes I’m stopped at the grocery. It’s no sudden rush of fame but more likely after three years of wine writing I’ve become the ‘wine guy.’ And I admit I really enjoy it.

It’s usually a wine newbie, or even a really young (always over 21) wine drinker wanting a question answered or a recommendation. It’s happened a lot lately so that made me think it’s time again to offer up some really affordable choices and maybe repeat a few old ones.

All of these wines are under $15 (or less) and readily available in Indiana, Illinois and most Midwestern states.

Robert Mondavi Private Selection – This is the entry level wines for the iconic Mondavi line mentioned in my last column. I have tried one more of those wines since the last Grape Sense and the quality is very consistent. The Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay are all consistently good value wines for $11. And better yet, the Mondavi Private Selection label is really easy to find.

Here is the spot where I should also repeat an oft-suggested label or two. Mirrasou wines are another great pick from the grocery or a liquor or wine store with limited selection. Smoking Loon, Bogle, and Blackstone are also palatable wines well under $15.

Banfi Centine Rose’ – Summer is not the only time of the year for dry pink wine. The Centine label is the value line from Banfi – which promotes itself as the world’s oldest winery. They do make some remarkably nice wine for, again, the $11 price point. I recently enjoyed the Rose which was very light in body with nice fresh red berry flavor and a hint of strawberry. The alcohol was a low 12.5 percent which makes it a great party wine. The Centine line also include a nice white blend and a Tuscan red blend which features Italy’s signature Sangiovese grape and Cabernet. These wines are also very easy to find.

Georges Duboeuf 2010 Morgon – The Duboeuf label is widely distributed and something you really should try. Duboeuf is king in France’s Beaujolais district but most people only think of the Nouveau when mentioning Duboeuf. I’ve never been a big fan of the Nouveau (wines that are bottled and sold within months of harvest), finding them rather uninteresting and bland. The Grand Cru Beaujolais is another matter. The Grand Cru (specific growing regions) offer bright fruit, smooth drinkability, and a light mouth feel. The Morgon is one of the top appellations for Beaujolais, I also like the Julienas for its earthy characteristics. The Beaujolais red wines are made from the Gamay grape. These wines are found under $15 and often around the $11-$12 price point.

Domaine de Noire ‘ Chinon - This is another French wine but from the Loire Valley region. This recommendation is less about the bottle I appreciated and more about the grape. Chinon wines are made from Cabernet Franc, a grape that has gotten little respect and little notice for too long in the wine world. Cabernet Franc might be thought of as Cab Sauvignon’s little brother. It’s certainly lighter and has a nice spice or pepper finish. It’s often used in blending Bordeaux-style wines. But the grape has gotten much more notice the last year or two for its flexibility. The de Noire was $16 and it is a label that is also easy to find. But pick up a Cab Franc wherever you can find one and give it a try. If Cab Sauv is a little too big for your taste, you just might like Cab Franc. I tasted some wonderful Cab Franc in Michigan last summer and it’s always on the shelves of most wine shops.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Robert Mondavi's Impact in Perspective

2011-11-10T15:46:00.000-05:00

The Oct. 5 death of Apple founder Steve Jobs had many people grappling with perspective on his death. Many called him this generation’s Thomas Edison or Henry Ford.

At about the same time two shipments of Robert Mondavi wines arrived to my office. Mondavi has been a household name to many for decades. But the odd timing brought into focus that beginning wine drinkers or value wine drinkers should know about America’s most iconic wine name.

Anyone interested can certainly find ample material online about Robert Mondavi. The details shared in Grape Sense come from internet research and the marketing firm that handles Mondavi wines.

The wines are distributed in all 50 states and are always good representatives of the grapes and a safe choice when nothing else on the shelf looks appealing.

Robert Mondavi became one of the world’s biggest wine brands not just through winemaking but the man’s marketing savvy and business sense. He was the son of Italian immigrants and a graduate of Stanford with a degree in economics and business administration.

He worked at Sunnyhill Winery with his father before the family purchased Charles Krug Winery. At the age of 53 he opened Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa. He pioneered winemaking techniques, led blind tastings, and preached the pleasures of wine, food and the arts to anyone who would listen.

He co-founded the American Institute of Wine and Food with Julia Child and Richard Graff in 1981. He has been “man of the year” for more publications and organizations than there is space to list. Perhaps one of his most notable honors came in 2005 when he won the Legion d’Honneur award, France’s highest Presidential honor.

His story got complicated in the early 1990s when his sons took over the business. They were producing a half-million cases of wine a year but were buried in debt. The family business went public and production soared to nearly 5 million cases annually. The Mondavi empire ended in 2004 when Constellation brands bought Mondavi for more than a billion dollars.

But throughout the ups and downs of the business Robert Mondavi was the spokesman for American wine. He deserves considerable credit for showing the world great wines could be produced in regions outside of Old World Europe.

One of the great partnerships of the last decade was Baron Philippe Rothschild and Robert Mondavi combining efforts in 1979 to create Opus One. The wine became one of the first super premium wines with the two rock star winemakers at the helm. The Bordeaux style blend is currently in its 2008 release and retails for $210.

Robert Mondavi died in 2008 at age 94. His name should be alongside Edison and the light bulb, Henry Ford and the Model T, Michael Jordan and basketball.

I’m frequently asked what wineries one should visit when making a first-time trip to Napa. I always suggest hitting Mondavi’s Spanish style landmark. It is the “granddaddy of them all,” to steal a line from sportscaster Keith Jackson.

The wines are good value at the lower price point and great wines in the upper echelon.

Howard’s Picks:

Robert Mondavi Private Selections include nine different wines at value prices you’ll find in groceries, wine shops, and liquor stores. The wines are very consistent for the under $15 price point. Another good choice in the value category is Mondavi-owned Woodbridge wines.

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley wines are the real flagship wines. These wines retail around $20-$30 and represent great wines, good critic scores, and consistent value for the price point.

Robert Mondavi Reserve Napa Cabernet is the top bottling, consistently garnering 90-plus points and measuring up to any Napa Cab. But it is a $100 a bottle of wine.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Unusual Suspects Red A Great Buy!

2011-10-31T16:38:00.004-04:00

I've been trying to group my wine reviews but I liked this wine so much I just had to share - especially for those readers in Central Indiana.

One of the advantages of the wine writing gig is getting to taste a lot of wines. Wineries, wholesale, and retailer outlets are always anxious to pour a sip of something special, different, or exciting.

I recently tasted several wines with Ashley Lockwood at Cork + Cracker in Indianapolis, near Broad Ripple. The winner of the bunch was Odisea's Unusual Suspects 2007 Lodi Red. It's called Unusual Suspects because of the blend which is 55 percent Carignane, 35 percent Tempranillo, and 10 percent Grenache.

The grapes come from nearly 100-year-old vines in the California Lodi region. It normally retails around $17-$18. But Ashley has it on clearance at her Cork + Cracker store right now.

The wine has bold dark cherry and an earthy spice flavor that I found totally irrestistable! It has a lovely mid palate and lingering finish. It's obviously distributed throughout Indiana and here is one worth looking for. It's great for wine newbies - something different with the grape blend, a wonderfully rustic flavor, and it's a price point anyone can afford under $15 at Ashley's.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Liz Rocks: Great Wine Shop, Great Service

2011-10-28T18:21:00.002-04:00

COLUMBUS, OH. - I first heard of Vino 100 a national retail wine shop chain several years ago when dabbling with the idea of going into retail wine at retirement. On a work related trip I had my first chance to visit a Vino 100 on the north side of Columbus, Ohio, at the Polaris Parkway exit off I-71.

That was 2007 and on the first visit and two or three times each fall since, I get to chat with the delightful Liz Avera. Liz is the shop owner and wine guru. I wrote about Vino 100 on this blog and also for the national online wine magazine - Palate Press. (Click the links to see those stories.)

I had missed Liz on two previous attempts this year but spent about a half hour Friday afternoon talking wine and the wine business. The shop is located in Westerville, an affluent Columbus suburb. The Polaris Parkway area is a thriving retail district with businesses that one could fairly label "upscale."

Many wine retailers have talked of the recession of 2008 and how they've struggled to this day to recover. Liz and her Vino 100 story is a bit different.

"We’re not a good test study because we opened in 2007," she said. "Our history is very short and spanned the entire recession. Not a lot of people knew about us when we first opened so we didn't have a cushion of all thesewine drinkers coming here to buy wine. We’ve actually grown every year since we opened.

Liz in her shop with the tasting notes that helped build her business

"What is interesting is buying patterns have changed. Some of our market has gone to buying two $10-$15 wines instead of one $50 one. We’re still really strong in the value niche and the longer we’ve been here the more people realize we are good at finding really good drinking wines that don’t cost as much. We’ll show you a $50 wine but then we’ll show you one that’s $25or less that will be really really good. People have learned to trust our inexpensive wines just as much as our higher end."

The Vino 100 system labels wines on taste characteristics but Liz is the buyer an has an eye for unique wines and great values. After all, the Vino 100 marketing line is "100 Great Wines Under $25."

I bought five bottles of wine - three under the $25 price point. The first one I picked up stunned me! I found a Stroppiana Oreste Langhe Rosso. Langhe is the premier region in Italy's Piedmont known for the big and expensive Barolos. The $23 wine is a blend of the grapes from Langhe but at a price far, far below what you normally have to pay to touch the applelation. I can't wait to try it.

The other wine I noticed was a Vina Robles from Paso Robles red blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache and Mourvedre for $17. Liz then sprinted at me with a bottle of Ippeas Kikonees from Greece that "you just have to try." So I plopped down the $25 for this Cab/Merlot blend on Liz's assurances.

That also is an illustration of what I preach in the newspaper column and here. Find wine store proprietors you like and trust and then take their word.

Just as a side note, I bought two more wines above the $25 price - beyond what I usually write about and don't purchase that frequently. I am a big fan of dry Rose'. Liz's husband Don poured me a taste of Domaine Ott Cotes de Provence. It was very light salmon in color and simply the best darn Rose I've ever tasted. Apparently, according to Jim, Robert Parker raved about this Rose as one of the best France has to offer.

My other purchase is an entire story, that I hope to do, but often what you'll find in smaller shops Liz told me of seeking out Napa winemaker Sandi Belcher who few people know. Long story made short for now - longer later - is Sandi makes some incredible wines. Liz was lucky enough to strike a chord with Belcher and landed 50 cases of IMPROMPTU a blend of Howell Mountain Cabernet from 2005, 2006, 2007, and 2008. She's down to just 15 cases and expects to sell it quickly. She is the only retail store, minus one New York restaurant, to have the wine. Belcher won't be making any more.

So I trusted Liz and plopped down some bigger bucks for the Rose' and IMPROMPTU which I'll cellar for awhile. But I can't wait to taste them.

"What’s cool, I think, is the business has grown organically, by word of mouth," Liz said. "People who are into wine are out in the community or at a party and they get asked, ’Where did you get this wine?… Where do you shop? And they say we love Vino 100. That's been a lot of our growth."

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Wine Reviews! Seriously! I'm Back to Wine Reviews!

2011-10-26T15:49:00.008-04:00

Tools of the trade!!

I've had some dynamite wines lately a bit all over the price point so it's past time to share the results. All of these, with one exception, should not be too hard to find.

So I round up the bottles of my recent wines, pour a glass of a nice French blend (see details below), grab a few little crackers and let's go!

Labyrinth Haka 2008 Tempranillo - It's probably just wrong to be suspicious of a grape grown outside the area where it's best know - but hey, we're all skeptics. I've had some pretty good Tempranillo from the U.S. West Coast before. The Twisted Oak version comes immediately to mind as a great wine. Lange Estates, the Pinot Noir folk, make a pretty good Tempranillo that just disappears off their shelves.

A year ago I traveled to Paso Robles and became a big fan of that regions wines. So when I passed this bottle on the shelf I had to give it a try. It's just the second vintage for the well-respected Labyrinth folks to produce the traditional Spanish grape.

Simply put, this is a fabulous food wine. It falls somewhere between medium and full-bodied wine that has big fruit, some depth, and a very soft and memorable finish. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol and sees 13 months in oak. (Labryrinth Haka 2002 Tempranillo, $18.99, Kahn's Wines, Indy, Highly Recommended.)

Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins Alain Jaume & Fils - This just might be the best value wine for the price I've ever tasted. Seriously. Domaine Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone wine is a Grenache driven wine with stunning full fruit and smoothness. It's 70 percent Grenache, 20 percent Syrah, and 10 percent Mourvedre - so very much a traditional French GSM wine.

It's fabulous quality might be partially understood knowing the vineyard borders the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation, the very best the area has to offer.

I loved the red berry aroma and flavors of this wine. It is rich and perfectly balanced. Many would use words like smooth, and even silky to describe this beauty. Online I found this wine at up to $19. I paid $14.99 for a bottle a few weeks ago and after opening it called the shop and had them set back a half case. (Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins Alain Jaume & Fils , $14.99, Grapevine Cottage, Zionsville, IN., Very Highly Recommended)

Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2010 Pinot Noir - So as I've written here several times I do get sample wine shipped to me from a number of marketing firms. A few weeks back I got a couple bottle of Mondavi's $20-$30 wines which I truly enjoy. Since then I got a Cabernet and Pinot Noir from the Private Selection (about $11) label.

I never have very high expectations of a Pinot Noir under $11 but this one just rocked all my perceptions. It was typical California Pinot Noir with bold fruit and a soft oak finish. It might have been as good an $15 Pinot as I've ever had. I'm now quite anixous to try the Cab to see if it holds up as well.

The great thing about this wine is it should be very easy to find. This line of Mondavi wines can be found in Kroger and many local supermarket and liquor stores. It will shock you with it's quality. Now, it's not a Russian River Valley and no where near an Oregon Pinot. But for grocery store, Central California coast wine, it rocks. (Mondavi 2010 Private Selection Pinot Noir, SRP $11, trade sample, Highly Recommended at the price point.)

Chateau Mas Neuf 2010 Rhone Paradox - This nifty white wine offers a lot of wow factor for a Rhone white wine. I've tried a lot of white Rhone wines this summer and many left me unimpressed or with just an 'okay' reaction.

I liked this Chatau Mas Neuf blend of 65 percent White Grenache and 35 percent Roussane a lot. It has a freshness that many of the others didn't show, maybe even a delicate characteristic. The tasting notes suggest peach .. but I'd go a bit further and say white peach ... a bit of tartness that I loved. This wine is a great one with snacks, chatting with friends, or would hold up to lighter meals.

Exploring French whites, particularly from the Rhone region, has been a fun summer project I'm glad I carried into the fall. This is refreshing yet interesting. There are layers of flavor beyond many of the $10-$12 Rhone whites. Reviewers at The Rhone Report gave this white 89 points. I'm sipping a glass while writing this entry! (Chateau Mas Neuf Rhone Paradox, $10-$12, though I paid slightly more at Grapevine Cottage, Highly Recommended)
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Farm Bloomington Offers Eclectic Dinner Selections

2011-10-12T12:00:00.005-04:00

I don’t consider myself a restaurant reviewer really but I do eat in enough fine dining establishments to offer some observations. I’ve tried to do a post on Grape Sense any time I visit a better restaurant and this week I have a stellar lineup.

I dined for the first time Tuesday night at FARM Bloomington and will be returning for my third visit Friday night to Iron Chef Michael Symon’s Lola Bistro in Cleveland.

Farm Bloomington follows the pattern of farm-to-fork restaurants that is exploding across the country. It’s probably safe to say few have the pedigree of Chef Daniel Orr. When you check out the Farm website be sure to read the chef’s bio.

Pork jowl with blueberry chutney on top

But how about Farm’s menu and food? A friend and I headed to Bloomington, In., to see an IU student production of the musical Hair. I made reservations several weeks ago to make sure we had a table at Bloomington’s latest hotspot. The décor is simple and the restaurant can get pretty loud when booked but the food is eclectic, inventive, and definitely delicious.

We both started with the Broccolli and Smoked Gouda soup. It was creamy with a wonderfully smooth texture. The Scholar’s Inn white bread which was deep-fried into croutons was insanely good.

I had the Anise and Cinnamon Braised Local Pork Jowl with root vegetables, “Chieftain” wild rice, with Michigan Blueberry Chutney. The pork, which is a tougher cut, was tender with just enough fat for flavor. The anise was strong throughout the dish, that strong licorice flavor was a tad over-powering but the uniqueness of the flavor combination was really enjoyable.

A nice, thick bone-in pork chop

My friend had the Grilled Gunthorp Bone-In Pork Chop with local pear and bourbon glaze, winter squash puree with pumpkin pepitas, and caramelized celericac. The thick chop was marvelous (ok we traded bites). It was moist and cooked perfectly. The pumpkin added a tad too much sweetness but again the one flaw in the dish was very minor.

We each had a glass of Spanish Garnacha blanc. It was a tad on the lighter sweeter side, but with a touch of acid proved a nice pairing for our medium-seasoned pork dishes.

For dessert we split a persimmon cheesecake bar with cranberries that was devine.

The damage – two soup, two entrees, one dessert, two glasses of wine and one cup of decaf came to $90 without tip.

If you have any reason to get close to Bloomington or IU, Farm is a destination restaurant.

I hope to get a blog post up Friday night after visiting Lolas. The two previous visits have ranked right near the top of my all-time restaurant meals.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Blaze Your Own Fall Wine Trail

2011-10-12T11:53:00.004-04:00

There’s nothing better than an October weekend drive. The leaves are turning, the cider is fresh, and you might even find some frost on the pumpkin. Oh, and don’t forget the apples!

There’s also no better time to visit local wineries. Many Midwestern wineries turn fall into festivals with special wines, food, and entertainment.

Let Grape Sense be your weekend travel guide. One of my favorite journeys is to Southern Indiana to visit Turtle Run and Huber Wineries. Turtle Run has a big day planned Oct. 16 with live music. Huber winery has live music every Saturday and Sunday through October.

Turtle Run's Jim Pfeiffer

While visiting Turtle Run say hello to winemaker and owner Jim Pfeiffer. Try some of his uniquely blended red and white wines.

Huber has quite a festival each October. The apple orchards are full of fruit and the kids can pick out a pumpkin for that special jack-o-lantern.

Huber makes some of Indiana’s best red wines. Try there Generations and Heritage blends. They also make a really nice Cabernet Franc.

Turtle Run and Huber are only a few miles apart. If you go to one, it’s a shame not visit the other!

Jim Butler

On the way south or coming back north go through Bloomington and make a stop at Butler winery’s tasting room downtown or out at the winery north of the city. Jim Butler is one of Indiana’s most-respected winemakers.

Try his wonderful dry Rose, Chambourcin, and dynamite specialty wines.

If you want more of a trip head up to the southwest corner of Michigan. Stop in at the Round Barn Winery, Tabor Hill, and Domaine Berrien Cellars.

The Round Barn has a wide variety of wines and a brewery where they craft beer. I’d recommend the Gewurztraminer. Bring a bottle or two home for your Thanksgiving Turkey.

Tabor Hill is one of the area’s most visited wineries and also features a restaurant. The wines are very light in style but clearly loved in Southern Michigan.

Domaine Berrien is one of the most interesting stops. The winery is one of the only Rhone Rangers members in the Midwest. They grow traditional French grapes, best known from the Rhone Valley, like Viognier, Marsanne, Rousanne and others to make wonderful blended wines.

In Illinois, there are a number of wineries in the southern part of the state. Explore the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail for a wonderful weekend.

Earlier this year I visited Wisconsin and became a big fan of Wollersheim Vineyards just outside Madison. If you make the trip to Southern Wisconsin, drive a half hour south of Wollersheim and visit Fisher King Winery in the charming village of Mount Horeb and enjoy its Norwegian heritage.

But wherever you live there are plenty of options nearby. It’s easy to find these wineries’ websites with a simple internet search. If you’re not sure or want to find some new spots use the state association websites. Here are the official names: Indiana Grape Council, Michigan Wines, Wineries of Wisconsin, and Illinois Wine.

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Argentina, Paso Robles, & France - Some Good Juice

2011-10-06T19:29:00.005-04:00

Time for a quick look at some wines I've enjoyed in the last few days. Two of the three I found in Central Indiana. The other would be hard to find.
Ocaso 2008 Bonarda-Syrah - I picked this wine up on a whim because it was a 50-50 blend and it caught my eye in an Indianapolis 21st Amendment Liquor Store. 21st Amendment, for those outside Indianapolis, is one of those big mega stores with lots of wine, beer, and liquor. But they're wine selection is quite good.

I have had various Argentian blends with one of my favorite, if not slightly obscure, grapes - Bonarda. I liked this one a lot. I was very much medium bodied with nice dark fruit. The Syrah provided big fruit while the Bonarda brought some nice soft and smoky round palate feel. It was an enjoyable and easy-to-drink wine.

Winemaker Patricio Gouguenheim makes an affordable wine that drinks well above it's price. It's hard to image a better glass of wine under $10. (Ocaso 2008 Bonarda Syrah, $9.98, Recommended.)

PasoPort 2010 Vinho Verde - I got this wine from a Paso Robles wine club so you're unlikely to find it at your neighborhood shop or liquor store. The point in even reviewing it is to promote Albarino. Albarino is grown largely in Spain and Portugal but continues to make inroads in California.

This 100 percent PasoPort Albarino is a really nice representation of the grape. It's bright and crisp without overpowering acidity. I found it to be a delightfully fresh glass of wine. The price point is $28 but you can find many Albarino wines between $10-$15. This would be great with seafood or sitting on the porch.

(PasoPort 2010 Vinho Verde, $28, Highly Recommended.)

Domaine de Noire 2009 Chinon - This is Cabernet Franc for you newcomers. Chinon is in France's Loire Valley and produces marvelous white wines, primarily Chenin Blanc. Their primary red wine is Cab Franc. Franc is used often as a blending wine but can be a really nice glass of softer red wine with a hint of a spicy finish.

This one is a good one and I've seen it in several Central Indiana wine stores. It has rich fruit and a nice fall spicy flavor - much like cider or a pumpkin pie. You know, it has the kind of spice in mild flavors that fully complement the fruit.

Look for this grape from Michigan and some Indiana producers. It does well in the midwest.

(Domaine de Noire, $16, Recommended, Grapevine Cottage, Zionsville)

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Winemakers: Too Much Bad Syrah Hurt Sales

2011-09-30T06:26:00.011-04:00

There is a joke in the wine world that goes something like this: ‘What’s the difference between a case of Syrah and a case of pneumonia?’

‘You can get rid of a case of pneumonia!’

Syrah sales have stagnated or dropped in the U.S. in recent years depending on how the research numbers are crunched. But everyone agrees Syrah never lived up to its ‘next-best thing’ potential.

Steve Cass

“Supermarket sales are down and you look and see Syrah sales are down,” said Steve Cass, Cass Winery, Paso Robles, CA. “But also take a look and you see Australian sales are down. There is a massive amount of Syrah or Shiraz (same grape) in this country going out at a fairly low price point. It’s not going out as premium wine.

“Our Syrah is our number-one selling red wine. I don’t think people are turned off by Syrah, maybe they’re turned off to cheap Syrah.”

Gary Eberle

California’s Syrah pioneer Gary Eberle agreed. “I think everybody is always looking for the new hot wine. When Merlot died I think everybody started looking for the next hot red wine and everybody jumped on Syrah. I just don’t think the consumer was ready for that much Syrah.”

Jason Hass of Tablas Creek Winery put numbers to the perception. “If you look at the planted acreage of Syrah over the course of the 1990s, 1992-2002, Syrah acreage went from just under 900 to more than 15,000 acres in California. Even though sales were growing really fast throughout that period there was just no way the market was going to absorb that much new Syrah.

“I don’t think you should confuse the fact there is extra Syrah on the market with the fact Syrah is not a varietal gaining popularity. It’s just a case of supply growing so fast it was going to overwhelm whatever demand was there any way.”

J.C. Diesenderfer

J.C. Diesenderfer, Hope Vineyards, said Syrah never found its market niche’. “We’re all really passionate about Syrah. We always felt Syrah was the next king of California. But it never found its spot. Syrah can be bright, mineral, soft and elegant. It can be a big bruiser. It can be anything in between.”

If you are a regular wine drinker you might recall grocery and liquor store shelves with plenty of Syrah. In recent months, you see far less Syrah or Shiraz. These prominent winemakers hit the nail right on the head during a seminar I attended last fall. The market was just flooded with cheap Shiraz, largely from Australia.

“I think Syrah does beautifully in Paso Robles,” Eberle said. “But I think Syrah does beautifully in a whole lot of different areas as well. In our tasting rooms we sell 1,000 cases of Syrah a year. There are people in this area making spectacular Syrah.

Terry Hoage

Then there is former NFL safety turned winemaker Terry Hoage who said Syrah sells when consumers are educated and they taste good Syrah. “I think it is a matter of education because it’s difficult for people to know what they’re getting. The largest hurdle we have to overcome in our industry is not dumbing down for the audience but making the audience feel comfortable that’s its ok to try new things. Push the envelope; just don’t go for a safe Cabernet. That is probably our biggest challenge.”

Howard’s Picks:

Central Coast Syrah is some of the best I’ve consumed. The winemakers quoted above all make incredible Syrah but at a higher price point ($20 and up) than I normally include in this column. There is plenty of Central Coast Syrah below $20 from makers like Qupe’. Washington State Syrah is often found at very reasonable prices with soft and balanced fruit.

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Connorsville Becomes 18th Paper Carrying Column

2011-09-28T08:47:00.000-04:00

Great news in this morning's email. The Connorsville New-Examiner becomes the 18th newspaper carrying Grape Sense, my newspaper column.

The News-Examiner's nearly 8,000 subscribers push the combined homes to 233,000 in Indiana and Illinois receiving the column in their hometown paper.

Editor Bob Hansen was swayed by friend Andrea Smithson, editor at the Shelbyville News. It's interesting that these small and mid-size community editors find out interest in wine and wine education exists where some might not expect to find it.

It's great to hit 18 newspapers as I approach my three-year anniversary writing the column. Now, I need to add two more and get it to 20!

Welcome aboard Connorsville and thanks Editor Hansen!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Rose Not Just for the Porch Any More

2011-09-27T20:56:00.002-04:00

I've been extolling the virtues of Dry Rose' since writing this blog. I keep finding new wines that excite me that scare people away. If' it's called Rose, folks, or if it is pink --- it is NOT a bad thing.

White Zinfandel, that of the pinkish hue, is enough to frighten anyone. But great dry Rose' is as far away from White Zinfandel as one can get.

Dry Rose' is enjoyed in the summer months. Many red wine drinkers find it more satisfying than white but still not quite the powerhouse of many reds.

Tuesday night I opened a Chateau de Pena - or Cuvee de Pena 2010 Rose. The wine is 60 percent Grenache and 40 percent Syrah. It's full flavored with a light touch. You'll get a little hint of strawberry, and maybe melon. What you will remember is how easy it is to drink and enjoy.

Don't be afraid to try Rose' with food. It will hold up to many lighter meals. Tonight I had some wonderfully simple Shrimp salad I picked up at an upper-scale market in Indianapolis. There was a very light dressing on fresh shrimp with herbs. I added a hunk of crusty bread and couldn't have been happier.

Oh, by the way did I mention this wine can be found around the $10 price point?

For those that find it important, the Cuve de Pena Rose comes from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France. It's just delightful. I'd give this wine a Highly Recommended!

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Something Different? Try a Cab Franc from Loire Valley

2011-09-26T19:29:00.001-04:00

A little exploring with Cabernet Franc has provided satisfying results in recent weeks. I have read in national publications and blogs about the merits of Cab Franc from France's Loire Valley.

I've bought a couple and so far like most of them. My best experience to date was Cab Franc - from all places - upper state Michigan. My previous tastes of Cab Franc were mostly disappointing to down right awful.

So I've been buying some French Cab Franc and enjoying it. The Loire Valley is known mostly for it's white wines - Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc. But it's also known for its bottlings of 100 percent Cabernet Franc.

Chinon is the Loire region for Cab Franc and about the only part of the region known for red wine grapes. The wines are known for acidity and spiced fruit flavors. I agree with the spiced fruit flavors but haven't found most of the Cab Francs I've consumed to be over-the-topic acidic.

Tonight I opened a bottle of Domaine du Grand Bouqueteau 2006 Chinon. It had the classic stinky nose of French Burgundy or Beaujolais - which I love. It was quite acidic and out-of-whack on opening but softened considerably with just a little bit of time.

It has pronounced fruit and an herbal quality I found pleasing. After decanting, or simply being open a while, it would be a fine sipper without food. I had the wine with a salt-n-peppered Ribeye and some veggies. It was quite nice. It was even better with the couple pieces of dark chocolate afterwards.

You can find many of these wines around the $15 price point in better wine shops. Cabernet Franc should not be thought of as just a blending grape. Pick up a bottle and you might be surprised how easy a good Cab Franc drinks with food or alone.

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Some Recent Great Bottles of Wine

2011-09-22T20:47:00.007-04:00

I'm trying hard to get back into the swing of things after a busy start to our College school year and return to my reviews and the blog.

Tonight I have four wines I've recently enjoyed and that are really easy to find. Two Cotes du Rhone - a white and a red. I also enjoyed one of the best Italian whites I've ever had along with with a real value Zin from Mendocino Co. in California.

Michel Gassier Cercius White 2009 - I love this French white wine with 70 percent Grenache Blanc and 30 percent Sauvignon Blanc. It is so refreshing on the palate where you'll find some hints of melon and citrus. I get floral notes and just love the smooth rich feel on the palate. It has an enjoyably long finish for a white wine. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this wine 90s points. (Highly Recommended, $13-$15. I bought this at Cork + Cracker, Indianapolis)

E. Guigal 2007 Cotes du Rhone - This traditional blend of 50 percent Syrah, 40 percent Grenache, and 10 percent Mourvedre delivers everything you'd expect in a solid Cotes du Rhone red wine. I didn't find this to be as earthy or as comples a wine as many - but it's quite enjoyable. It would be a great red for introduction to newbies or introduction to French wines. (Recommended, $14.99, Grapevine Cottage, Zionsville)

Bonterra 2008 Mendocino County Zinfandel - I visited Mendocino early this year and found some of the most approachable, full-flavored Zinfandels I've ever tasted. This value bottle had nice pepper and hints of blueberry. I have to note that I've read "blueberry" as a flavor characteristic in other wine reviews and never really got it until I drank this wine. If you prefer "dark fruit" - well, that works too! It's big enough to please most Zin fans but not overpowering. Wine Enthusiast gave this organically grown Zin 90 points. (Recommended, $11, Cork + Cracker, Indianapolis)

Litorale 2009 Vermentino -Vermentino is a grape I've tried a handful of times and was just always left unimpressed. That changed in a big way with the 2009 Litorale version. I loved this white wine that definitely has a pleasant but different flavor profile than most wine drinkers might be familiar. Vermentino is farmed along Italy's coast near Tuscany. It is a crisp white wine with an enjoyable floral richness. It's not nearly as acidic as some I've tasted previously. (Highly recommended, $14.99, Cork + Cracker, Indy)

These wines should all be widely available wherever fine wines are sold in Indiana. I note where I bought them for readers' convenience.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Mixed Ancestry Charbono Making a Comeback

2011-09-13T15:54:00.004-04:00

Is it Italian or French?

Is the wine a unique ancient varietal?

Or, is it the same grape as Argentina’s Bonarda or maybe a genetic cousin?

Charbono, a grape most have never heard of, is making a small comeback. It wasn’t long ago that U.S. plantings had dwindled to about 10 acres. The latest available statistics show Charbono’s plantings have grown to 80 acres, all in California.

As written here before, one of the great experiences in wine enjoyment is trying new wines. It won’t be easy to find a Charbono but it is worth the effort. The wine is a very inky, dark purple with a rich red-fruit flavor. Cherry and raspberry dominate the palate with a bit of spice on the finish. The tannins, or finish, tend to be quite smooth.

The grape is interesting because of its confusing heritage. The grape was once thought to be related to Italy’s little Dolcetto grape from Piedmont. But it actually comes from the Savoie region in France. That explains how the grape migrated to Argentina along with Malbec.

The ancestral trail was tracked down by Department of Viticulture and Enology at University of California, Davis. Researchers there, the most prestigious U.S. research college for wine grapes, determined Charbono was the same grape as Bonarda and mostly likely the same grape under the names of Corbeau, Douce Noire, or Charbonneau.

Sally Ottoson, Pacific Star Winery

There is quite a bit of Charbono grown around Calistoga in Napa Valley and some in Mendocino County. Names you might look for include: August Briggs, Turley, Chameleon, Shypoke, Joseph Laurence Shypoke, Robert Foley, Saddleback, Dunnewood, Tofanelli, Fortino, and Consentino Heitz. The wine tends to retail in the high teens to the low $30 range.

“All the winemakers in California who are bottling it have to fight over the grapes,” Sally Ottoson, Pacific Star Winery told INTOWINE.com. “But back in the ‘70’s Inglenook was doing a Charbono, and so was Parducci.

“John Parducci was really a mentor for me. I think Charbono is a very universal wine. It’s not too tannic and not too acidic — a real food friendly wine. People always ask me to describe the grape’s characteristics, but that’s a difficult thing to do because it doesn’t have a distinct flavor profile like other grapes. So I like to say, it’s like an old woman who puts perfume in the same spot every day and it kind of sinks into her skin and you get this essence that evokes memories.”

I met Sally during a press wine trip to Mendocino in January. Her stunning location on the rocky Pacific shore about 12 miles north of Fort Bragg is worth the trip alone. She makes a wide variety of wines and has worked in California wine since 1972.

Her winemaking style is blend-o-holic. “I like to add a little bit of this to a little bit of that,” she said during that visit. “We make a huge effort to make wine fun. Don’t agonize over it. I make wine the old-fashioned way. I make wine in barrels.”

During the same trip I met Maria Martinson of Testa House winery. Her family settled in California in the very early 1900s as Italian immigrants. She had a beautiful Charbono that was not yet released. We tasted the fifth generation winemaker’s juice straight from the barrel.

Finding Charbono might be a challenge in the Midwest. But you can usually find a good Argentinian Bonarda at better wine shops.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Rocky's Pub a Mansfield, OH., Fine-dining Fixture

2011-09-09T21:37:00.004-04:00

Rocky's Pub on Mansfield's town square.

MANSFIELD, OH. – For many people, me included, one of the fun parts of traveling is discovering the local flavor. While many of us think of that as wine, it certainly is restaurants, arts, and much more.

I travel for work in the fall and love to explore restaurants. Two years ago during a trip to Northwest Ohio my traveling companion and I discovered Rocky’s Pub in Mansfield, Ohio.

We dined there again Friday night and it really was delightful. Passing judgment on a restaurant should mirror reviewing wine. You have to judge the wine, or restaurant, for what it is. There are great $12 bottles of wine and great $250 bottles of wine. But they are different animals – the same goes for restaurants.

Rocky’s Pub is certainly not a pub at all. While the name Rocky conjures up the image of pub food and toughness, this 37-year Mansfield fixture is fine dining on the town square in this community of 47,000 - best known for its nearby Mid-Ohio racetrack.

It’s the kind of place you might walk by, and without a recommendation, never walk in. It’s rather roughhewn on the exterior as the photo shows. Inside it’s dark with strings of lights, stained glass and candles.

The quirky bar was full at 7 p.m. but had emptied by 9.

But it’s about the food and wine, isn’t it? Executive Chef Sally Nesta serves up a consistent menu of Norwegian Salmon, Italian standards, Lake Erie Walleye, Scrod, and nightly specials. The Friday night specials included a spicy stuffed pepper, Kobe Ribeye, and rack of lamb.

The wine list was varied with the usual markups. It was weighted to the bottom of the price scale with Woodbridge and Kendall Jackson prevalent. But it also included a Barolo, Chateau St. Jean Cabernet, a meritage from Washington state, and Wente Chardonnay.

I had the rack of lamb with rosemary that was perfectly cooked to medium rare. It was moist and delicious. My only complaint was it needed a little salt and pepper. My dinner companion had the wild mushroom pasta that he described as flavorful with wonderful mushrooms.

I scoured the wine list and we ordered a $29 bottle of Cantina Pedres Cerasio Cannonau. Or you can call it Grenache from Sardinia, Italy. It was light in body but pleasant with nice fruit and a soft finish. It worked well with my lamb and the pasta. Judging from the markup on the other labels, the wine was marked up 100 percent from retail.

The sides, salad, and a wonderful crusty bread were as good as you’ll find in most fine dining restaurants.

My only squibble with Rocky’s was the staffing. Our waitress was wonderful but overworked. By my count, she had 8-9 tables on a busy Friday night. There are about 25 tables in the restaurant excluding the bar. On top of serving, the waitresses had to bus tables as well. One bus boy/girl could make a big difference in the customer service.

If you have reason to drive into Northeastern Ohio along I-71, Rocky’s Pub in Mansfield is worth the trip off the interstate, five miles perhaps. It’s an old-fashioned fine dining restaurant that seldom exists in most cities. The food is quite good and atmosphere a tad eclectic. Most diners are going to love it.

Sorry I've Been Gone! Back Soon!

2011-09-02T11:05:00.000-04:00

It feels like I've abandoned my wine writing at times recently. It's not that, it's really just way too much going on in life.

For Example:

A. Moving my elderly mother.
B. Moving myself across town.
C. Start of a new school year.
D. Launching a new college website.

So I'm busy. In about another week things should return to normal and I'll be back posting at least a couple times a week. I just added my latest newspaper column. I have some reviews to get onto the site.

And coming soon I'll have a host of video interviews from my July trip to Oregon's Willamette Valley.

Thanks for your patience.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Synthetics & Screw Caps: Cork Fights Back

2011-09-02T10:57:00.002-04:00

Cork, synthetics, screw caps, and now glass closures can bring wine geeks to a furious debate.

For nearly 300 years cork was the wine closure of choice for the wine industry. But synthetic corks and screw caps have made major inroads in the wine market. Cork’s downfall started in the early 80s when a Swiss researcher discovered TCA – or cork taint. Even cork industry promoters will admit cork taint does exist. But the big debate is whether it’s in a mere fraction of all bottled wine or up to 10 percent of all wines using cork closures.

There is also the phenomenon of cork taint. Too often the cork is blamed for a bad bottle of wine when a host of other factors can cause the wine to taste bad. Another way to look at the argument is how much you care if your $10 bottle of Cabernet is corked? Sure, you are aggravated it has to be poured down the drain but it’s just $10. On the other hand, higher end wines use cork almost exclusively. Last winter I had to pour out a $75 bottle of Pinot Noir I was saving for a special occasion. I was not a happy wino!

“Taint is the most misunderstood and misreported issue in the wine world “contends a cork advocacy group, 100PercentCork.org. “The taint typically associated with wine corks is TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole). It’s a harmless but ubiquitous environmental compound that gives wine a must flavor at very low concentrations.”

The advocacy group acknowledges cork taint but points out the contamination can also come from bottling equipment, airborne molds or chlorine-based compounds in wineries and cellars. 100PercentCork has made use of research conducted by Purdue University ‘s Christian Butzke. His research was published in the May/June 2008 Vineyard & Winery Management.

“TCA is no longer a major problem for the U.S. wine industry,” Butzke said. The Purdue Associate professor notes many bagged vegetables can be affected by the same compound but consumers write off any smell to “earthiness.”

But for many wineries and consumers the cork is out of the bottle. Plastic closures were the rage not too many years ago but seem to have fallen out of favor recently. You’ll still find many wines with synthetic corks. I often found them too soft and easily pulled out of the bottle or so hard I had to go to the gym before prying a synthetic opener out. Screw caps offer a great alternative. A screw cap eliminates oxidation but the jury remains out on how well wines will age with a screw cap. Conversely, most wines in a screw cap are at the lower end of the price scale and unlikely to be put down for aging.

I purchased a wonderful and relatively expensive bottle of Pinot during a recent Oregon trip and it had a glass closure. Glass stoppers don’t require an opener and provide a tight seal with a plastic liner. Oxidation is still under testing but appears to hold up over time. It also provides a nice look of sophistication.

Cork has lost market share to these new closure products. But it’s hard to imagine the great wines of the world ever using anything but cork. There is plenty of scientific evidence, not to mention the romance, of popping a cork from a fine bottle of wine with little worry.

For consumers and Grape Sense readers, you are sooner or later going to buy a bad bottle of wine. But your concerns and efforts are better used on selecting a good value bottle than worrying about cork taint.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Plenty of Summer Remains for a Dry Rose'

2011-08-26T14:45:00.008-04:00

Dry Rose’ has become a cause for many who take wine seriously. No, it’s definitely not White Zinfandel and pink wine is not always sweet.

Rose’ wines are food-friendly and versatile. These pink wines are dry and a tremendous value. They are also some of the hottest wines, when it comes to sales, in the summer market.

Dry, pink wine really has skyrocketed the past few years. As a matter of fact, sale of Rose’ wines priced above $8 grew more than 53 percent between 2007 and 2008.
Dry Rose’ is affordable, delicious, east to pair with food and yet delightful on a summer evening with nothing but a cracker or snack foods.

Most Rose’ is made from traditional red wine grapes. The wine is simply left in contact with the grape skins for less time than red wine. You get less tannin in the wine and more balanced fruit flavor. Rose’ wines have hints of strawberry and other red fruit. Rose’ can also be made from just about any red wine grape.

Rose’ is my summer guilty pleasure. Here are the four best Rose’ wines I’ve found this summer. All of these are widely available.

Mas Donis 2010 Rosat – Spanish winemakers know how to make great Rose’. This inexpensive Rose is 80 percent Grenache, 10 percent Syrah and 10 percent Merlot. It is a full-bodied wine that will give you hints of red fruit, smoky flavors, and nice acidity. The Mas Donis stands out for its beautiful nose. Some Rose’ can be pretty flat when you stick your nose in the glass. You’ll love the wave of strawberry you get when you take a whiff of this $8-$12 wine.

Andieux & Fils Cotes de Provence – French Rose’ is every bit as finessed and delicate as you would expect. The A&F Rose’ is refreshing and lighter than the Rosat. The blend is 60 percent Grenache and 40 percent Syrah. It has a salmon color with beautiful hints of red raspberry, strawberry, and even a hint of apricot or maybe peach on your palate. Like most Rose’, this wine has low alcohol at just 12.5 percent.

Banfi Rosa Regale – And if you really want to try something different pick up this delicious sparkler. Banfi is one of the most recognized wine names in Italy. They make this beautiful sparkling Rose’ that would be a marvelous before or after-dinner delight. Strong raspberry is lush on the mid palate. The bubbles are really quite restrained. The dark red cranberry color is beautiful. The alcohol is a ridiculously low 7 percent. This is the most expensive wine on the list at $20.

Charles & Charles 2010 Rose – Rose from Spain, France and Italy, and of course now one from the U.S.A. Charles Smith, of the two Charlies in the name, is one of Washington state’s best known, controversial, out-spoken and talented winemakers.

This Rose’ is 100 percent Syrah and it rocks. It’s the best I’ve tasted this summer and maybe one of the best I’ve ever had. It is big in flavor – think sage, raspberry, and maybe even a Jolly Rancher. This wine is proof you can enjoy world class wine for $10-$13.

Finally, I’d also suggest seeking out Pinot Noir Rose for Pinot loves. Most Pinot Rose’ is going to be above the price points mentioned here but the well-made Pinot Rose’ is a palate-pleasing treat.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

If Local Means Local Shouldn't That Include Wine?

2011-08-09T13:15:00.002-04:00

So much has been written in recent years about the local food movement. Restaurants have sprung up across the nation espousing the 'farm-to-fork' movement.

For the unititiated, it's simply buy local produce and use local products on the restaurant table. I travel enough to get in and out of lots of restaurants and I'm constantly surprised how few 'farm-to-fork' operations maintain the 'local' concept when it comes to wine.

The same can be said for any restaurant whether its part of the farm-to-fork movement or not.

A somewhat pleasant surprise occured over the weekend visiting the historic Key West Shrimp House in Madison, IN. The Shrimp House had several area Indiana wines on their menu. They had wines from the Thomas Family Winery and Madison Vineyards.

In photo at right was my Saturday night entree: A shrimp, scallops and crab meat platter with sides.

Additionally, Madison Vineyards labels makes a Key West Shrimp House label exclusively for the restaurant.

Unfortunately, I didn't find the remainder of the wine list very interesting. For a place that serves fish, you would hope to find one Sauvignon Blanc or perhaps even a Seyval Blanc or an Indiana wine similar to a Sauv Blanc - there are plenty! I was suprised and pleased to find Mondavi's very nice Fume Blanc on the list but it was available only by the bottle.

The restaurant has a long history. Many years ago there were multiple Key West Shrimp House locations across Indiana including Indianapolis. The first one opened in Indy in the 50s. The Madison location opened in 1968 and continues as a family-run restaurant today.

The food is good. It's what you would expect in land-locked Indiana. I'm assuming most all of the product comes in frozen but the sides have a homemade quality most would enjoy.

In the last year I've been in Michigan and Wisconsin wine regions and those areas often struggle to get local wines into restaurants. Hats off to Scott Koerner at Key West Shrimp House for bringing local vintners' wines to Madison regulars and tourists!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Basking in Oregon's Pinot Noir Afterglow

2011-08-09T12:53:00.006-04:00

(Published July 28, 2011) - A wine trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley July 18-22 served as a reminder why so many folks love wine country travel and good wine.

The trip was mostly personal vacation but also an opportunity to casually interview a few folks and gather some material for a few newspaper columns, Madison Magazine in Anderson, and the national online wine magazine – Palate Press.

Visiting 16 wineries in four days, and tasting approximately 50-plus wines, re-invigorated my love for sharing these stories. It’s not just the juice in the glass and the Willamette Valley’s incredible Pinot Noir but it’s the people, the food, the environment that makes a wine hobby so much fun.
As the resident wine geek for a number of folks, most requests revolve around Pinot Noir. Perhaps that’s because of Sideways, the run-away hit movie from 2004 which turned Pinot into a national sensation.

So let’s get that out of the way first. In the value Pinot category, I always recommend Mirrasou, Concannon, and Flipflop. All three labels have a nice, but very light, Pinot under $10. You can’t go wrong. If you want a little stronger Pinot flavor and will go up to $15, look for Mark West, Dashwood, or Castle Rock.

With that noted, I’ll put my wine geek hat on and head back to Oregon. Most value Pinot is very thin though some are well made. Oregon’s entry level Pinot Noirs start around $25-$35 price range.

But you really have to taste one of the wonderful Pinots at or near the upper price level to appreciate the grape. Additionally, I’d argue, tasting the upper-end Pinot will help you better select value brands.

Two suggestions that aren’t way off the price charts are Lange Willamette Valley and Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee. Both are widely available in the Midwest. The Lange wine retails around the $20 price point while Domaine Serene will range from $27-$32. Think of it as a special occasion wine if that is outside your normal comfort level.

The wine-writing thing opens doors. I chatted with three prominent winemakers, had appointments at several wineries and all were fantastic experiences. But it was the people behind the tasting room counters who made the trip. During our first three stops everyone recommended we visit Vidon Winery, a spot I knew nothing about. It turned out to be one of the best visits and awesome Pinot.

But that experience was the rule not the exception. We met two 25-year-olds at different wineries doing some of the grunt work who aspire to be winemakers. I was able to greet some old friends from two previous trips.

In photo at left, one of the magnificent views of the Willamette Valley. This shot was taken at Anderson Family Vineyards.

The people who make the wine aren’t just winemakers. Two columns ago I wrote about wine country travel and urged readers to talk to those people who are pouring the wine. The Oregon trip really drove that point home again.

Finally, for those ready to open their wallets here are a few recommendations or “Best of” from my trip: Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot ($60), 2009 Penner-Ash Dussin Vineyard Pinot ($60), Domaine Drouhin 2007 Laurene ($65), and Domaine Serene’s Etoile Vineyard Chardonnay ($40). All are available in better Indiana and Illinois wine shops and some liquor stores.

In photo at upper right is Don Hagge owner and winemaker at Vidon Vineyars, one of the best Pinots I tasted. His wines can be hard to find in most states, though.

Finally, one of the most enjoyable stops was at Republic of Jam in Carlton. Two ladies take Oregon’s magnificent fruit and turn it into unbelievable taste combinations. Many of their savory delights can be used in cooking. Look them up online and order some jam!

Editor's Note: See four albums of photos from my Oregon trip by clicking on My Wine Travel in the right rail.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Vertical Offers Raunch, Fun Romp of Pinot, Pathos

2011-08-02T20:04:00.001-04:00

Mr Rogers died, American troops invaded Iraq, and Saddam Hussein was captured. The year was 2003. Do you think you could persuade any reasonable Pinot Noir winemaker that a small-budget Hollywood movie would turn their world upside down?

Rex Pickett’s Sideways hit the screens in 2004 and nothing has been the same for Pinot, and certainly Merlot, since. It remains rather remarkable to this day how often the movie comes up when you visit regions known for their Pinot Noir. Marketers, winemakers, and tasting room folk credit Miles and Jack for the boom in Pinot popularity and sales.

If you love Pinot or just reading about wine you know the story. Now, Pickett is back along with Miles and Jack and gallons of Pinot Noir in Vertical. It’s the Sideways sequel.

The novel was released last year and talk of a Sideways follow-up has stayed hot since. During an October 2010 visit to Paso Robles, locals were discussing a possible movie. And having completed the novel, there is no question itwill be coming to a screen near you.

The Vertical story picks up after Sideways. Miles novel is made into a wildly successful movie and he’s in big demand. Buddy Jack is divorced and has hit hard times. Miles’ elderly mother is in failing health in Southern California and wants to go live out her life with a sister in Wisconsin. It’s not hard to see another road trip coming. Miles recruits Jack, packs up Mom, hires a Filipino caretaker and they’re off through California wine country and then to Oregon before taking Mom home.

Miles has been invited to host the International Pinot Noir Festival in McMinnville setting the scene for more over-the-top drunkness and sex.

Pickett has mastered storytelling and attention to detail but he’s shown no ability to exercise self control. Wading into the first few chapters you might be shocked by the raunchy descriptions of the orgies centered around Miles and Jack.

Pickett includes a level of detail on the sexual forays of our favorite author that just didn’t advance the story. It often reads awkward and out of place. It goes from making the reader uncomfortable to worse when Jack suffers from a problem erectile dysfunction medications warn you about in their wonderfully odd commercials.

But he does tell a wonderful story that serves as a screenplay for what could be another very successful movie. There is plenty of sex, winery name dropping, Willamette Valley wonderfulness, and Pinot Noir. It’s really a two-part novel. The first two-thirds of the book is the two buddys’ madcap roadtrip with the final third of the pages serving as a moving novelette about a middle-aged man dealing with the health and well-being of his aged mother.

Pickett has been spending time on Sideways for the stage. There seems little question Vertical the movie can be far behind.

If moviemakers can sign Paul Giamatti and Thomas Haden Church for Miles and Jack, a hit seems assured. How about Betty White in a serious dramatic role as Miles’ Mother?

If you like wine and good story telling you’re going to like Vertical. Or, you can just wait for the movie that’s sure to follow.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Concannon's Crimson & Clover Big Fruity/Silky Feel

2011-07-29T19:02:00.002-04:00

I've been a fan of Concannon wines even before their savy marketer Stephen Mitchell put me on their samples list.

I jumped at the chance to have dinner with John Concannon earlier this summer when he was working with his distributor visiting retail outlets in Indiana. He usually does one media availabilty per trip, he told me.

So, at Stephen's urging I'm sure, Concannon used that one media availability with me and gave me a bit of a scoop. He told me Concannon was about to add a fifth wine to their dynamite lineup of Conservancy wines.

The new wine would be called "Crimson & Clover" honoring his father, Jim. Jim Concannon was the first to bottle Petit Sirah as a varietal and is a real icon in California.

The wine was introduced this week on Jim Concannon's 80th birthday.

My samples of the new wine arrived yesterday. I was little worried by our heat, but opened a bottle tonight with a ribeye off the grill. The wine will be popular. Seldom can you find a big, fruit-forward red wine with a nice silky texture like this one for $15.

The wine is a blend of 50 percent Petit Sirah, 25 percent Cabernet, 15 percent Syrah, and 10 percent Zinfandel. It gets plenty of time in oak - 18 months in French and American wood. The alcohol is relatively low at 13.7 percent.

Though not particularly sophisticated, a really nice and big fruit red wine. Again, I urge people to judge wine at the price point. And for $15, this is darn good wine.

I wrote a newspaper column about Concannon as well which you can check out here.

I found this story about the Concannon Celebration. There are a lot more like it online.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Willamette Valley, Day 4 - It's About the People

2011-07-24T18:59:00.022-04:00

You can love wine, food, or model trains but in the end it's always about the people that make standout memories.

Friday wrapped up my short visit to Oregon and the Willamette Valley and the trip just couldn't have ended better. Sure, we tasted some insanely wonderful Pinot Noir Friday in the Dundee Hills. With names like Domaine Serene, Domain Drouhin, Winderlea, and Sokol Blosser, great wine is an expectation.

Another big highlight of this trip was meeting Don Lange, Lange Vineyards, Don Hagge, Vidon, and Cliff Anderson, Anderson Family Vineyards. And it was seeing friends like Bill Sweat and Donna Morris, Winderlea, that make visits memorable.

But while making all those awesome stops, and a few more, we met some really interesting and amazing people along the way. I learned a long time ago in the newspaper business, that everyone has a story.

Click on my "Wine Travel Photos" at right for all the week's pictures and here for Friday's photos.

We started our day at Winter's Hill, an Oregon producer most have never heard about. Emily and Peter Gladhart own and operate the small tasting room and brand new winery with a panoramic view of the valley. Their daughter-in-law Delphine, who grew up in Beaujolais and Burgundy, is now the winemaker.

Emily pours the wines in the tasting room. I had visited Winter's Hill two years ago but, frankly, had no memory of the product. Their Pinot Noir was very nice and holds up to most on the hill. It's a great product. Emily is a quiet and unassuming woman not afraid to ask for the sell. But she clearly is living a dream in an unbelievably beautiful spot in the valley.

Anyone who loves Pinot has heard of Domaine Serene owned Ken and Grace Evanstad. We had a marvelous visit and tour thanks to Lucas Willett. Lucas has 10 years of experience in the wine industry, most of it prior to Serene spent with King Estate Winery in Southern Oregon.

Lucas (at left) gave us ample time, answered questions, and was a great host. The thing that stood out was the repeated attention to detail Serene gives their wines and entire operation. Taste the wine, it all makes sense.

Lucas led us through the five story, gravity flow operation. Along the way we met 25-year-old Jason McCluskey who worked as an intern but so impressed the winemakers they hired him full time.

Jason (in photo at right) was preparing to balance the acidity in aging wine when we met him.

Willett had us sample the usual super lineup of Serene Pinot Noir. But he also poured a very unique white Pinot Noir. I'd never had anything like it. They make less than 200 cases and you're not going to find it at your local wine shop. The Coeur Blanc is rich with an almost Sauternes mouth feel. At $85 a pop it's not for everyone, but a very very unique wine.

One of my goals on this trip was hit some spots I'd previously missed. Sokol Blosser is one of the Valley pioneers in Pinot Noir. As a matter of fact, they claim their tasting room to be the very first in the Valley.

That's where we met the entusiastic and knowledgeable Forrest Schad. Forrest (at left) was a bit over-the-top enthusiastic but it was hard not to enjoy the guy's enthusiasm. He grows some grapes with his father and a few acres of his own. Ask him about his future plans and you'll get, "I want to be the winemaker at Sokol Blosser."

He poured the lineup for us and it was outstanding juice from top to bottom. They might have the best Rose' of Pinot Noir I've tasted. The Blosser 2008 Dundee Hills Pinot rocked!

At that point in the day I really didn't think things could improve much and it was just past noon. But an appointment at Domaine Drouhin blew us away.

I met and interviewed Laurent Drouhin for Palate Press in the spring of 2010. When I told him I had visited the Willamette Valley twice but never DDO he admonished me. So I had to make it up to Drouhin this trip.

We were greeted by DDO Managing Director David Millman, a most gracious host. We had so much fun talking out in the vineyard we almost never got the winery tour started.

David walked us through the beautiful facility and a tasting of Drouhin's wines. Along the way we met a very young icon - Arthur Drouhin, the fifth generation of the Burgundy family.

David shared a great story of how Burgundy wines afte often named for family daughters but never sons. Apparently young Arthur felt slighted and mother Veronique, winemaker for DDO and Joseph Drouhin, asked family patriarch Robert for permission. But Burgundy families are all about the tradition and the elder Drouhin said no.

Veronique didn't give up easily though and eventually Robert gave his permission to put a boy's name on a white, instead of the traditional red, wine. The Arthur Chardonnay is widely distributed.

Arthur admitted he frequently gets asked about his plans to join the family business, and understandably at 16 he isn't so sure. He was in Oregon on a three-week visit to work in the winery and work on his English.

One of the cool things at Drouhin is the ability to taste Veronique's great DDO wines and then compare them to one of her bottles from Burgundy. The "Laurene" Pinot at $65 isn't cheap for the average consumer, but about as good as Oregon Pinot gets.

We also got the chance to taste a 1999 vintage of the Willamette Valley Pinot. The current release is the entry point for DDO wines at $40. The 1999 is available in the tasting room for $100 - the taste indicated a bottle would be worth every nickel.

The wines on Thursday and Friday just blew us away. I brought a few back with me. A hint for wine country travelers. Always check the fee for a second bag if you're traveling with just one checked piece of baggage.

With the record heat I couldn't ship by ground, air shipping is about $10 a bottle. I brought my wine back for a $35 second-bag charge and it arrived just fine. A suggestion, though, is to find a local UPS store and have the wine professionally packed.

I like it when my Pinot rides home with me.

I do have some other odds and ends about this trip I'll get up in the coming days. I am going to put together a video about the trip for Palate Press but that will be a few weeks away. I have some cool video clips too just for the blog.

This year I faced a choice of visiting Drew Casey, Wabash Class of 2012 and his family, or going to my first Wine Bloggers Conference. That was an easy choice but I've always wanted to attend WBC.

I learned today Portland was selected as host for next year's conference.

What perfect timing!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Willamette Valley, Day 3 - Day of the Dons

2011-07-22T10:23:00.004-04:00

Three days in wine country bring me to the always tough struggle of wanting to share the wine experience through my writing and enjoying a real vacation.

I posted Thursday's photo album to my Facebook page but didn't get it posted here last night. But I was productive this morning. Drew shot nearly all these phots, nearly 30 in the Thursday album here.

Thursday was simply one of the best "wine days" I've ever had. Magnificent Oregon Pinot Noir combined with three interesting and gracious winemakers made for a great day with my friend Drew.

I'm not going to write great detail, rather I'll let the photo album and cutlines do the talking. Lange wines have long been one of my favorites. We started our day by going high up in the Dundee Hills - 750 feet above sea level to be exact - and tasting their incredible wines.

During a 2009 trip I met Jesse Lange and learned a lot about the Lange operation. I had an appointment scheduled with Jesse for yesterday but he had to cancel at the last minute. Instead, patriarch Don Lange joined us and I was thrilled. Don Lange is one of the real Willamette Valley pioneers and a soft spoken, funny, gracious man.

For those who don't know, Don made his living as a songwriter and musician before starting the vineyards. His college degree is in poetry. It seems more than poetic and beyond my words at 7 a.m. (without coffee) to draw the obviously and symbolic ties in his life. But what a great guy!

Our second stop was just as interesting for differen reasons. Cliff and Allison Anderson planted vineyards in the early 90s and sold their grapes to other producers for years. Now they are making their own wines - Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. They don't have a tasting room, no signs point to their property, and furthermore, Cliff says they never will.

"We want to provide the type of experience I'd like to have," he said. They have plenty of visitors and welcome anyone who'd like to visit and taste their wines but don't want the rat race of a tasting room. At Anderson, the wines will be poured by Cliff or Allison. It's the type of experience you get frequently in Willamette Valley but not the better known names. It's also the type of experience that barely exists in California and bigger producing areas.

Everyone told us we had to visit Vidon Winery and we did Tuesday. Don Hagge, owner, winemaker, and local legend, missed us and invited us back. So yesterday we went back to see Don. Don worked in the Apollo space program and is as vigorous today approaching 80 years old as anyone you'll meet.

He takes a unique approach to his wine making. He uses three Pinot clones which he bottles individually and then blends them for his popular "Three Clones" wines. We tasted the 08 and 09 which were quite different. I seldome use words like "silky, stunning, and elegant" but his wines were that and more.

Our day concluded at another valley icon Lynn Penner Ash. We did the Pinot flight in a crowded tasting room and enjoyed the view.

Today is my last day here and it's doing to be another big one. If yesterday was "Day of the Dons" today will be "Domain Day." We're off this morning to visit and tour the highly-regarded Domaine Serene and then this afternoon Domaine Drouhin. We'll sneak a couple more visits in and then it's dinner in downtown Portland tonight and a redeye flight home.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Willamette Valley, Day 2: The Gorge & Mountain

2011-07-21T09:35:00.004-04:00

No matter how much you love wine, visiting wine country, and touring the vineyard you probably wouldn't go to Napa or Sonoma and not visit San Francisco's famous sites.

If you go to Mendocino most would go out to the Pacific and explore the charming coastal towns.

And as much as I love wine, enjoy wineries, and love learning more about winemaking, I wouldn't think of coming all the way out to the Oregon and miss the Columbia River Gorge and Mt. Hood.

Wednesday was a break from wine - ok, we made a couple of stops. We drove the Columbia River Gorge, which I think is one of the most beautiful places I've visited in the U.S. After a couple of quick winery stops, we then entered Mt. Hood National park.

The day's highlight was driving up the mountain to Timberline Lodge. It's a pretty good day when you can sit at the 6,000 foot level of a 13,000 foot mountain and enjoy he view. We had a glass of Penner Ash Pinot Noir and soaked in the majesty of Mt. Hood.

I have a big photo album here with some expanded cutlines. And giving credit where it's due, I'm visiting with a college senior who attends Wabash College where I work. Drew Casey, Portland, and his family are hosting me this week. Drew is really a great photographer. Most of the photos in the album are his work. I took a few.

Today - Thursday - it's back into the Willamette Valley. We'll start our day at Lange Estate Vineyards, and then visit Winderlea, Anderson Family Vineyards (with its spectacular view), back to Vidon to meet the winemaker and probably squeeze in another visit or two.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Willamette Valley, Day 1: Vidon Pinot & Republic of Jam

2011-07-20T01:20:00.007-04:00

PORTLAND, OR - There is nothing more fun, educational, and exciting than visiting wine country for wine geeks.

One of my favorite places has become Oregon's Willamette Valley. This is my third trip to the region and first solely focused on the wine, food, and people. In other words, I'm not here for work - just wine, food, and cultural appreciation.

After an ugly Monday Indianapolis to Dallas to Portland flight (not a route I'd recommend), my first day Tuesday was off the charts in diversity, fun, and enrichment.

Two of my favorite things - wine and food - took center stage. I'm not going to write wine reviews on these daily updates but, instead, mention places I really liked and what I enjoyed about each. And one of the biggest things about visiting a place like the Willamette Valley is not just the wine, but the people and the food.

See Drew and my photos in an album here. All of this week's albums will be included in the link to the right.

Our day included four wine stops. We started at Dundee, just off Highway 99W, at Four Graces. I had visited the "Graces" two years ago and loved it. Tuesday the highlight was a white wine instead of their Pinot Noir. I found a rich, creamy and dry Pinot Blanc that just rocked. Their Pinots, a bit on the higher price side at $29-$45-$75, are nice wines.

Our second wine stop was in downtown McMinnville - my first visit to the town at the heart of wine country. We sort of wandered into Willamette Valley Vineyard's tasting room and were welcomed by the very knowledgeable and fun Mari Yeckel. Mari - (pronounce it like there are two "r's" .. Marrr-ee)

Mari poured a really nice Syrah based Rose' and several Pinot Noirs. Drew, my host in Portland, joined me with his mother for Tuesday's fun. Drew is a senior in College where I work and has a pretty discerning palate for a 21 year old.

Drew and I both loved the 2008 Tualatin Estate Pinot with hints of black cherry and raspberry. I was taken by the wine's smooth and rich mouth feel. This wine was worth the $45.

Mari exemplied customer service in a customer service industry. We learned just before leaving that she's also a food blogger. Check her blog out here.

Wine stop No. 3 was at the Carlton Winemaker's Studio. These collaborative wine operations are a good place for anyone new to the area to include on their itinerary. Jeff Woodard poured wines from 4-5 of the 11 winemakers represented. Many of these wine labels are names you may not know but offer real quality. Andrew Rich is the headliner and you'll find his wines in many states.

Other labels include: Wahle, Lazy River, Dukes, Hamacher, Retour, and Brittan. Robert Brittan makes the wines of Winderlea and Ayoub as well. His $45 "Basalt Block" Pinot was the best of the lot being poured Tuesday.

In one of my most recent newspaper columns I recommended asking tasting room workers for recommendations on other wineries. We did that Tuesday and nearly everyone recommended Vidon, just north of Newberg.

We got to Vidon late in the afternoon after a mix-up on the tasting room's closing time. The young man pouring, on his first day on the job, agreed to give us a taste of two Pinots. We tasted the 08 and 09. Many have called the 2008 vintage one of the best in Oregon's recent history. But Drew and I both liked the 2009 best.

Vidon has bit of a cult status in the valley. The 09 was "silky" in texture with beautiful balance. I often admit struggling for the right words to describe wine. I've seen "silky" used before but never tasted it. I found the Vidon 'silky' Three Clones Pinot Noir easily the best wine of the day. Easily!

Our lunch, at Mari's recommendation, at the Community Plate just down the street in McMinnville was another big highlight. The latest in the growing 'farm-to-fork' movement didn't disappoint. A great menu with four cold and four hot sandwich choices made our day. The cool urban feel of the place, along with all the young people working the food, was a big highlight.

But even with the Vidon Pinot and Scott Cunningham's insanely delicious hamburger, jam stole the day. Lynnette Shaw and Amy Wilder have created a sensation in Carlton known as the Republic of Jam. Lynnette's secret, she laughs - "I don't like sweet stuff."

The ladies at ROJ take Oregon's incredible fruits and combine them with the area's wines,spices and create unbelieveable taste combinations that lean to the savory side. Many of the jams can be used for entrees or in ways you've never imagined using a jar of breakfast spread.

I did some video with the ladies and plan to incorporate that into a video I'll do for Palate Press in the coming weeks. I've never had taste combinations - in jam or much else - like I enjoyed at the Republic of Jam. They run their small business like a winery tasting room when you visit. You can also order their unique combinations online.

I've simply never tasted anything like it.

Wednesday is a day away from wine. I'm going to drive the Columbia River Gorge, drive around Mt. Hood, go up the the lodge at about the treeline on the mountain, and maybe make one or two winery stops in that area. Then it's back to Willamette Thursday and Friday to visit a few of the most iconic names in Oregon wine.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Off to Oregon's Willamette Valley for Ton-O-Pinot

2011-07-18T09:13:00.002-04:00

Hoping a long circuitous route later today to land in Portland late tonight and spend four days in Pinot Noir bliss.

This will be my third visit to the Willamette Valley. I'm planning on seeing some old favorites and friends and visiting new spots. Oh, and pick up some fresh hazelnuts and jam.

Visiting Willamette always has a different feel to me. It's not as hectic, crazy, and commercialized as most of the California regions. Oh, and the Pinot Noir just rocks. Pinotphiles can drive from winery to winery searching for a bad glass and are unlikely to find one! That's my kind of wine country.

I have an appointment to visit with Jesse Lange, Lange Vineyards. Lange is one of the premier producers in the valley. The same day I'll make my first visit to Anderson Family vineyards with their spectacular views atop the Dundee Hills.

I have a private tour of Domaine Serene Friday morning. I plan on making my first stop at Domaine Drouhin. After interviewing Laurent a year ago in Indianapolis, Drouhin had to be on this year's stop.

I will also meet with two interesting ladies doing fun stuff with Oregon's beautiful wines and fruit and turning it into jam at the Republic of Jam.

I look forward to seeing old friends at Winderlea and making my first stop next door at Maresh.

There's much more but that a small sense of the plans. I'll be blogging each evening, doing updates on Twitter, and have lots and lots of photos.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Wisconsin Wine Story Now Up on Palate Press

2011-07-11T12:31:00.005-04:00

I think I've become the roving "states" reporter for Palate Press. I'm happy to do just that, thank you!

Last summer I visited Michigan wineries and wrote a piece about that state's wine efforts that was very well received. I had a ton of positive feedback. Earlier this spring I visited Wisconsin with a similar type of thing in mind.

The story is now featured on Palate Press.

(In photo at right, Steve Johnson and Maria Milano pour me a glass of Glacier White.)

Here are some links of blog entries and photos from my visit not included in the Palate Press Story:

Photo Albums:
Wollersheim Winery
Fisher King Winery
Ledgestone and Parallell 44 wineries

Blog Entries During My Visit:
Wollersheim and Fisher King Visits
Ledgestone and Parallell 44 Visits

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Summertime and The Sipping is Easy

2011-07-10T16:08:00.008-04:00

With apologies to George Gershwin, summer is the time living is easy and we all look for light summer wines.

Here are some of my latest summer whites and a rose' I've been checking out.

Cristobal 1492 Verdelho - This wine and the Rose' below were easily the big winners of the past week.

I had picked up a bottle of Cristobal Bonarda at Cork + Cracker in Indy and really liked it a lot. I saw this bottle of Portugal's Verdelho grape from Mendoza in Argentina and knew I had to try it.

I loved this wine a lot. It had nice melon, foral and spicy flavors that were simply delicious. It's not a wine to ponder and evaluate - it's a wine to enjoy.

It picked up 90 points from one of the big wine publications and it's not hard to see why. And for $10???? You've got to be kidding me!

(Cristobal 1492 Verdelho, $9.99, Grapevine Cottage, Zionsville, Highly Recommended)

Clayhouse 2010 Adobe Pink - Sometimes I wish wineries producing really great Rose' wouldn't call them "Pink" only because it would be easier for me to get people to try Rose'.

But Clayhouse can call this really nice pink wine any color it wishes and I'd still recommend it. I haven't consumed much Rose yet this summer but I have several waiting in the wine racks. The Clayhouse has set the bar pretty high.

The Adobe pink gets a head start with my heart and head because it's such an interesting blend of 38 percent Mourvedre, 32 percent Syrah, and 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Clayhouse is a Paso Robles winery that benefits from the rich flavors grapes give after a summer of hot days and cool nights.

Indeed, the wine is pink or maybe salmon is a better choice of words if you'd like a little more sophistication and avoid the "P" word. On the palate it delivered strawbertry and nice spice along with a dry finish. It was one of the most drinkable and well-made Rose' wines I've had in several summers. I loved it.

(Clayhouse 2010 Adobe Pink, SGR $14, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended)

By the way, Clayhouse now has an Indiana distributor so you Hoosier wine drinkers should seek out the "Adobe" line of wines - they're a great bang for the buck!

Cucao 2009 PX - Here is a new one for me and probably most of you. The PX in the wine's name means Pedro Ximénez. Yes, that's a grape kids! The grape has mostly been used for Spanish Sherry or even brandy.

For those of you looking for something different, here you go. This wine had a unique tartness on my palate. The taste was some cross between apricot, raisin, and lime, and definitely some minerality and pretty strong acid. I could see this wine with cold appetizers or maybe a salad. It is certainly on the dry side and you will notice the acid.

It's worth a try. I really had trouble deciding whether I even liked it or not. On the first night, I didn't care for it at all but on the second evening the acid had calmed down a bit and I found it sort of "intersting." Definitely a wine for the adventurous.

(Cucao PX, $9.99 at Cork + Cracker, Indianapolis, No Recommendation)

Gazela Vinho Verde - Here is an Albarino wine that is definitely different than others I've tasted. This is almost like a sparkling wine or at least a white with effervesence some would consider nearing carbonation. I found it a little odd.

It had bright flavors of grapefruit and a nice tangy citrus flavor that lingered on the palate.

If you like a little effervesence in your wine you're going to like this one. Serve it chilled on a hot summer day and your guests will be impressed with your adventurous spirit.

(Gazelo Vinho Verde, $7.99, Cork + Cracker, Indianapolis, Recommended)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Have a Plan For Your Trip to Wine Country

2011-07-08T14:17:00.008-04:00

Planning a trip to wine country doesn’t require a tour guide, limousine, or a lot advance planning.

Many travelers are including day trips into wine country as they visit regions around the world. Then there are the real wine geeks among us who plan most of their vacation time around wine.

Newspaper Columns like Grape Sense and many internet bloggers seek to demystify wine. Making wine travel simple and enjoyable can be a similar challenge. My wine travel includes two trips to Napa and Sonoma. I’ve made pre-planned trips to Paso Robles and Mendocino County. I’ve done three-day trips into Michigan and Wisconsin wine regions and a single day in Tuscany, Italy.

I’ll be making my third trip to Oregon’s Willamette Valley in mid-July.
While not claiming expertise, I’ve certainly learned some things you should and should not do!

- You should spend time on the internet and read about the wineries you’re going to visit. Double check hours, tasting fees, and tours.

- Do take a full vineyard tour at one stop. If you want to learn more about wine there is nothing better than a vineyard to winery and then tasting tour. One is enough; tours usually last 1-2 hours and cost double or more the cost of a tasting. Tasting fees range from $5 to $20 depending on the wine region. Some wineries will deduct tasting fees from a purchase and some will not.

(In photo above right, I joined a group of wine writers in January touring Mendocino County, California. Here we are tasting the wines of Jeriko Vineyards. Copyright photo, Tom Liden 2011)

- Do ask a lot of questions. Anyone serving in the tasting room should be able to tell you the basics about the winery and each wine. If the servers can’t answer the basics – the type of grapes and how the wine is made – leave and go to another winery.

- Don’t over-plan your visit. I always plan on going to two or three wineries a day. I have done my internet research so I know others in the area I might like to visit. It allows some spontaneity. Three to four winery visits a day is plenty.

- Do not think of winery visits as drinking. It’s tasting wine. If you can, learn to spit – it’s how the real pros can taste so many wines in a day. If you can’t fully appreciate a wine without swallowing it, learn to stop after a sip or two and pour the remainder in the dump container on the counter.

- Do think outside the box. Sure, if you’re in Napa Valley visit Mondavi. But ask people in the tasting room, other visitors, your motel clerk, the waitress about the smaller wineries that don’t have tour buses in the parking lot. Such wineries will often be your fondest memories.

- Don’t assume all wine vacations start and end with Napa/Sonoma, Paso Robles, Mendocino, Oregon, Virginia, Michigan, and Washington state. Check out wine trails in your state and states nearby. A great start is the Uplands Wine Trail in Southern Indiana. Or, get that internet map out and make your own wine trail!

- Do not drink and drive. Many wineries will offer designated drivers some bottled water or a soft drink.

- Do not try to taste everything at each winery. I ask the tasting room personnel to pour their biggest selling red and white, maybe something that interests my wine palate, and always end with, 'Is there something else you would have me taste?'

- Do have bottled water and some crackers or snacks to balance the alcohol throughout the day.

(In the photo above, our traveling group takes a vineyard tour with Chris Nelson of Nelson Family Vineyards. Copyright photo, Tom Liden 2011)

I will be in Oregon’s Willamette Valley July 19-22 tasting some of the world’s very best Pinot Noir. I will post a lot of photos and write about the experience here each day.

Get in the car this summer and try some new wines!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Mondavi, Duboeuf - Some Classic Wines

2011-07-06T19:01:00.004-04:00

I've been spending a lot of time lately preparing for a trip to Oregon's Willamette Valley wine country and it's showed up by the scarcity of blog posts. More on the trip in a later post, let's catch up on at least a couple of really easy to find wines.

Robert Mondavi 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet - Betty Crocker, Campbell's Soup, Coca Cola, and Budweiser are all such iconic and classic brand names. Sometimes we have to go back to those brands to remember just how darn good they consistently are each and every time.

I sort of feel that way about Robert Mondavi wines. I have has several through the years and feel like I should blush to admit I had never had Mondavi Cabernet - his flagship wine. I got a bottle of his Napa Valley Cabernet as a trade sample recently and had it over the weekend with a bone-in rib steak I charred on the grill.

The wine, just like the name, is an American classic. It's 85 percent Cabernet, 7 percent Merlot, 5 percent Cabernet Franc, 2 percent Syrah, and 1 percent Petit Verdot. The wine is big, smooth with a really nice texture and rich finish. Year in and out the Napa Cab gets a consistent 90-91 points from the major scoring publications.

I got hints of dark fruit flavors, particularly cherry, with beautiful balance. Now, before you think I'm going to gush on ... this wasn't the best Cabernet I've had for the price point. The Mondavi Cab was really good. Turning to Mondavi is a bit like stopping at Wendy's or McDonalds on the interstate. You know exactly what you're going to get! Good quality and value in a respected name is nothing to sneeze at.

(Robert Mondavi 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet, $28, Trade Sample - you're most likely going to find it around $20 or even less. Recommended.)

Georges Duboeuf 2010 Moulin-A-Vent - It's exciting to get wines not yet released for sale to the general public - a perk of wine writing I suppose. I recently got a shipment of several of the iconic Beaujolais producer's Cru Beaujolais wines.

George Duboeuf grew up a peasant boy into the Beaujolais region's major negociant. (Neogicant is a wine merchant who purchases wine from much smaller producers and sells them under his own label.) While his name may not equal some of those in Bordeaux, Duboeuf's wines have probably graced more dinner tables than most French Chateau's namesakes.

The Moulin-A-Vent was very smooth and pleasingly light with grilled hamburgers on the Fourth of July! After all, the French were our major ally in the Revolutionary War. That makes Beaujolais and burgers a perfect pairing! It had hints of smoke and soft dark fruit. It did not feature the earthy characteristics that are often much-sought after in French wine but can be a bit gamey in Beaujolais.

The Cru Beaujolais wines are the area's best. As I've written before, forget the Nouveau at Thanksgiving time and try the Cru wines and you'll be a gamay grape fan!

(Georges Duboeuf 2010 Moulin-A-Vent, $16, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Mondavi, Clayhouse, and Graffigna - Oh My!

2011-06-27T20:00:00.013-04:00

Same old song - I have some catching up to do. So tonight I'm going to try to get current on a bunch of "trade sample" wine I've recently tasted.

Yes, people send me wine to review. There is a whole disclaimer process - including 'no promises I'll review it' and more important 'no promises I'll like it.' But I've written that before and would hope there has been enough credibility established for the skeptics.

Someone once asked why I don't write much about real stinkers. Well, there are two answers to that one. First, I don't go looking for real stinkers. I also consider that some wines I might not like, others might. With those wines, I try to review them for what they offer and how well I think they're made.

I'll throw in what I thought was a real stinker in tonight's reviews just to make the point! How's that?

Let's start off with three wines from the legendary Robert Mondavi. It starts with an example of price point and style.

Robert Mondavi Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc - The grapes come from the Central Coast and make a nice light and lean Sauv Blanc. There are no big flavors or acidity clobbering your palate but still nice enough zest and fruit for the price point. This is nice wine for $11 and widely available. (Mondavi Private Selection Sauv Blanc, $11, Trade Sample, Recommended)

Mondavi 2009 Fume Blanc - Most people think of Cabernet when they think of the most iconic name in California wine. But this Fume Blanc has been a favorite of wine drinkers for a long time. It's 90 percent Sauv Blanc and 10 percent Semillon. For those unfamiliar with Semillon it's often used in blending and provide a very nice fruit and softness to any grape combination. The fruit is mostly Napa Valley in this one. This wine enjoys some time in oak and offers up a richness many Sauv Blancs often miss. If you love the strong citrus and acidity of Sauv Blanc but like it with a softer edge, you'd love this wine. (Mondavi Fume Blanc, $20, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended)

Mondavi Pinot Grigio - This is like a bad movie that starts with a disclaimer. I'm NOT a big Pinot Grigio fan in general. I just find it uninteresting. I opened this wine on a hot Hoosier afternoon after doing yard work. It was ... okay ... not a lot of fruiit on the palate .... the acidity was okay ... it was good wine for $11 ... just not memorable. (Mondavi Pinot Grigio, $11, trade sample, No recommendation)

Now some samples from marketing friend Rusty Eddy who represents Clayhouse Wines in Paso Robles. I visited the Clayhouse tasting room in downtown Paso when there in October 2010 and loved them. Rusty had the marketing arm send out their Adobe line of wines. Very good stuff!

Clayhouse 2009 Adobe Red - This blend of 32 percent Zinfandel, 25 percent Petit Sirah, 13 percent Malbed, 11 percent Cab, 10 percent Syrah, and 9 percent Petit Verdot sounds like a kitchen-sink blend - and it might be. But I found it had a wonderful dark fruit, cherry flavor with soft tannins and extraordinarily drinkable. You won't find this in every state - but ask! (Clayhouse 2009 Adobe Red, $14, Trade Sample, Recommended)

Clayhouse 2010 Adobe White - Have you ever opened a bottle of wine that you are "not supposed to like" by all standards - but you just loved it? Well, I'm not sure if the "not supposed to like" standard applies here but I loved this simple, rich, and soft white wine. It's a lovely blend of Viognier, Sauv Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Princess, and Chenin Blanc. This has orange, lemon but above all it has a rich and smooth feel in the mouth that I think many wine drinkers would just fall in love with after a taste. This is damn fine juice. (Clayhouse 2010 Adobe White, $14, Trade Sample, Highly Recommended - nah, make that my second 'Very Highly Recommended" wine of the year. Snobs won't like it. Porch drinkers like me will love it!)

Graffigna 2008 Malbec Reserve - This great Malbec surprised me as it opened up. At first sip I thought 'Okay, so-so Malbec and a nice little wine for the price.' But as the wine opened up it really became a rich and interesting wine for the price. There's pepper, spice, and maybe even some coffee. It was delicious! Robert Parker gave this wine 90 points! (Graffigna 2008 Malbec Reserve, $12-$14, Trade Sample, Recommended!)

Baker's Dozen Wines - Okay, I promised! I was sent these four samples from a marketing firm representing the winemakers who were introducing non-traditionally sweet wines ... sweet Chardonnay, sweet Pinot Noir, sweet Cabernet (you read that right), and sweet Pinot Grigio. Indiana was a test state for the wine, which makes some sense considering Hoosiers taste for sweeter wines - particularly our homegrown ones. I just tasted the Pinot Noir and Cabernet - and to say they were an undrinkable mess would be an understatement. Cabernet should be dry - Concord is sweet. I like trying new things and respect people trying new things. This was a bad idea from the beginning. And don't get me started on the labels which look an awful lot like a famous jelly and jam company. (Baker's Dozen wines, Cheap, Trade Samples, Absolutely NOT Recommended, don't think about it ... buy local sweet wines from your state winery instead!)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Concannon Celebrating Its History with Petit Sirah

2011-06-22T14:54:00.002-04:00

There’s nothing better than a glass of wine with a great background story. Concannon of Livermore, Ca., offers both to consumers with an eye on the environment and great wine.

The Concannon family arrived in California in 1883 and has been operating continuously by the ensuing generations down to John Concannon today. John’s father Jim Concannon is a California wine pioneer. Jim is also widely credited for America’s first 100 percent Petit Sirah.

“This is our flagship wine,” John Concannon said during a recent Indianapolis visit. “My father was the first to make Petit Sirah in 1961 as a varietal. For years before, it was a blending grape used in Burgundy. We’ve actually trademarked ‘America’s first Petit Sirah.’ So, we’re celebrating 50 years.”

Besides the bold, rich Petit Sirah, Concannon is also known for helping lead a conservancy movement in the Livermore region, which is just east of San Francisco. Concannon and other area vintners have placed their vineyards in an independent trust that assures urban sprawl will never take over the historic area’s farm ground.

Concannon makes four wines, soon to add a fifth, from the Conservancy properties – Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Sirah, and Chardonnay. They retail at $15 and represent some of the best value varietals you’ll find at the price point.

But Concannon is best known for the small purple grape with all the big flavor. “This is actually a very sacred process how we make our Petit Sirah,” Concannon said. “We harvest the fruit at night, let it cool down, we bring it in and throw it on the sorting table. We sort out the berries, throw them through the rubber impalers and release the juice. We add some yeast and we’re making wine like the Egyptians did.”

The grape can be difficult to work with for a 100 percent varietal wine. “This wine is a little devil,” Concannon said. “What we’ve learned in 50 years it’s all about controlling the oxidation rate. During the first six months we lock it down in stainless steel and then the next six months we’re putting it in American oak, medium toast (that’s our spice rack). This is where the old school winemaking comes in because during the last six months we’re putting the wine in these 55-year-old vertical, upright barrels. They are French oak from Bordeaux. The wood is inert so it’s not giving off any flavor but the porousness of the wood accelerates the oxidation rate, speeding up the aging process. That gives it a nice soft mid-palate.”

The end result of all that hand crafting is a wine that’s anything but petite. “This wine is the St. Bernard that wants to sit in your lap,” John laughed. “It’s a very friendly wine but it’s big.”

And while many people shy away from big red wines it’s easy to recommend Concannon’s version because of the roundness. Concannon shared recent A.C. Nielson statistics showing Petit Sirah as the second-fastest growing varietal in California behind Pinot Noir.

He suggests pairing the wine with any food that has spice or pepper along with steak, barbeque, or Asian food. “If you have heat in the meal, bring it on. This wine can keep up with it.”

I love this wine with a nice charred steak.

Howard’s Picks:
Concannon Conservancy wines – At $15 each, you can’t go wrong with these wines distributed in all 50 states. The Cabernet and Petit Sirah are big flavored wines with a nice smooth mid palate and finish. The Merlot shocked me with its hint of spice. The Chardonnay doesn’t clobber you with oak. These are great wines. Concannon is about to release a new addition to its Conservancy lineup – “Crimson and Clover” to honor Jim Concannon. The crimson stands for the red wines and clover for the family’s Irish heritage. The red blend is expected in stores later this year.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Its Sounds Crazy, But Try Wine Cake

2011-06-19T20:15:00.000-04:00

I love to cook but I'm certainly no baker. Like many of my generation my mother, now 85 years young, can whip up some pretty darn good baked goods.

And ... I helped! (get the pop cultural reference?)

Any way ... Mom and I have made this recipe with Strawberry, Raspberry, and Cherry fruit wine. I'm not a fruit wine fan generally but it makes darn fine cake!

I dressed up Saturday's version of Strawberry wine cake with small bits of fresh strawberries as you can see in the iPhone pic I shot shown here.

Wine Cake:
1 box white cake mix with pudding (or regular works too!)
1 cup of berry wine
1 cup oil
1 small box of same berry jello
1 tsp vanilla
4 eggs

Combine all ingredients. Bake in greased and floured bundt pan at 325 for 50-60 minutes.

Glaze:
1 2/3 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup berry wine

(I usually take 1/2 cup or more of the berry wine and cook it down to 1/4 cup to intensify the wonderful icing!

I'm tellking ya, this cake rocks!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Catching Up: A Passel of Wine Reviews

2011-06-14T17:26:00.019-04:00

I've sipped lots of great and interesting wines over the past two weeks and tonight is catch-up night!

Cristobal 1492 2008 Bonarda - If you're looking for a great house wine or an easy drinker at a great price, this wine is for you. First, many have not heard of Bonarda.

Bonarda was more widely planted in Argentina before Malbec made its big splash. And if you like Malbec, you're going to like this grape. The bigger versions contrast Malbec with a bit more earth and smokey characteristics, I believe.

This wine is a value wine with rich and smooth flavors. You might get a hint of chocolate once you get past the smooth blackberry on the front of the palate. It's a bit softer than most Malbecs with a rich mouth texture.

I like this wine a lot! (Cristobal 1492 2008 Bonarda, $11.99, but I found it under $10 in Indianapolis, Highly Recommended for price point!)

Georges Duboeuf 2010 Beaujolais-Villages - The Gamay grape can be a stinky mess at times but the last two vintages from 2009 and 2010 have provided a great example of how quaffable (that word again!) this wine can be during a good vintage and in the hands of the best winemakers.

The 2010, which won't be released in retail until later in the year, offers a hint of cherry/strawberry and a nice earthiness without the often-typical Gamay funk.

Beaujolais is a wine you should try for the price point. Go for the Crus and avoid the fall Nouveau. A lot of people are going to like this wine. (Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages, Trade Sample, you'll find this wine around the $10 price point and up everywhere, Recommended)

Cooper Mountain 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir - Wow! What a great bottle of Pinot Noir.

This is a lovely Cooper Mountain Pinot with great balance and an uber-smooth finish. You'll get cherry, strawberry and a hint of spice in this real beauty. Robert Parker gave this wine a coveted 90 points - it's not hard to see why.

For those casual wine fans, the 2008 Willamette Valley Pinots are considered one of the best vintages ever from Oregon. I've tasted a handful, and will taste a lot mroe when I travel there this summer, but so far all have been outstanding.

In my experience with Oregon Pinot, you normally would have to hit the $30-$35 price point for Pinot this good! (Cooper Mountain 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir, $19.99-$22.95, Highly Recommended)

Huber Winery 2008 Heritage - I don't review a lot of Indiana wine on the blog but Huber Winery often deserves some platitudes. The 2008 Heritage is a blend of 50 percent Cabernet, 40 percent Cab Franc, and 10 percent Petite Verdot. The interesting thing is all three grapes in this wine are grown on the sprawling Huber operation near Louisville, Ky., on the Indiana side of the river at Starlight.

The wine is delightful. I've long said Huber makes some of the very best red wine you'll find in Indiana. They have a litany of awards to prove others agree. This is a red wine you'll think could have come from California or perhaps Australia.

Hubers' Heritage is a nice pick for Hoosiers looking for an Indiana red wine option. (Huber 2002 Heritage, $18.99, Recommended)

Qupe 2008 Marsanne - I love California Central Coast wines and Qupe makes really great Syrah. So when Ashley at Cork & Cracker in Indy had a special on the Qupe Marsanne I had to pick up a bottle.

First, this isn't a wine for every wine drinker. The Santa Ynez Valley grapes are 81 percent Marsanne and 19 percent Rousanne. For newbies, those are traditional French Rhone white grapes.

There is a hint of peach or apricot but the most distinguishing characteristic is a bitterness that is going to be off-putting to casual wine drinkers and some frequent imbibers!

If you want to try something different, this one definitely fits that bill! (Qupe 2008 Marsanne, $18.99, Recommended - for the adventurous!)

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

What a Great Story Behind Colby Red Wine

2011-06-06T11:08:00.005-04:00

Few industries have proved more generous in recent years than the wine industry. Wine auctions across America raise millions of dollars for great causes annually.

But the story of 13-year-old Colby Groom touches the heart in a way different than corporate charitable efforts. When Colby was barely 10 years old he had back-to-back open heart surgeries. His remarkable recovery and generous spirit now drives his father and others to raise money for charities that promote heart health.

After recovering from the life-threatening challenges, Colby now promotes a red wine blend bearing his name – Colby Red. The boy asked his famous winemaking father if they could make a wine to help raise money for Heart Disease charities.

Daryl Groom is certainly no doting father humoring his ill son. Groom is a world class Australian winemaker who worked for Penfolds before coming to the U.S. in 1990 to work for Geyser Peak and Beam Wine Estates.

The project really took off after a February appearance on NBC’s Today Show. With Walgreen Drugstores on board as a national corporate partner, suddenly 20,000 cases of a California red wine blend didn’t seem like enough.

“Honestly we have been blown away and are quite humbled by the tremendous support Colby Red has received from consumers, trade and media,” Daryl Groom told Grape Sense. “People love the wine and they really want to support the cause. We get lots of emails and Facebook messages daily.

“Because of the support so far this year we have raised $115,000. This is a far cry from the $500-$1,000 my son and I were hoping to raise when he first conceived the idea. Of the $115K raised we have donated $72,000 and quite an additional amount of product to heart related charities across the country.”

The wine, with a suggested retail price of $12.99, can be found in wine shops, liquor stores, and in Walgreen stores across the nation. Of course with a “suggested” retail price, don’t be surprised if you find the wine at a lower cost.

All of the project’s profits go to Colby’s charity. But for a proud dad, there’s more to this project than selling a lot of wine for a good cause.
“Aside from raising the money for worthy charities, which puts a huge smile on our faces, my family has been rewarded immensely in watching our son Colby grow with the process,” Groom said. “From being so fragile post-surgery to a young man who gets on stage at heart benefit balls around the country and confidently and proudly tells his story to help others.”

You can learn much more about Colby Groom, the wine, and the project at colbyred.com and on Facebook at Colby Red Wine.

Howard’s Pick:
Colby 2009 Red Blend, $12.99 – There are no excuses not to try this fruit-forward red wine if you live near a Walgreens. The wine is a cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Shiraz, Merlot and Petite Sirah. It’s big fruit with soft edges and very enjoyable finish. And by the way, it’s a very smooth and wonderful glass of red wine!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Vintage Indiana this Weekend in Indy

2011-06-02T14:59:00.001-04:00

For those in Central Indiana or nearby, it's a great weekend to head to Indianapolis.

Vintage Indiana "a Festival of wine, food, and fun" has become one of summer's biggest events. I have not been able to attend in recent years because of a work conflict that always seems to hit the same weekend.

But it's great to go visit with all the Indiana wineries and taste their wines. It's also a unique experience to not just taste the wines, but often it's the winemaker pouring them.

Here is all the information you need on the Vintage Indiana website!

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Reviews: A Variety of Good Wine Choices

2011-05-30T14:41:00.009-04:00

It's been two weeks since my last batch of wine reviews and I've sampled some interesting and very enjoyable wines over that period.

Here is my periodic quick review of wines I've been drinking.

Boomtown 2009 Pinot Gris - This Washington state Pinot Gris is a beautiful white wine. The wine has nice round peach and honey dew melon. The acidity is very well balanced for a Northwest Pinot Gris.

Oregon and Washington make some beautiful whites. Some are going to be a bit acidic for many palates but not this one. You won't find a nicer Washington or Oregon Pinot Gris for the price. (Boomtown 2009 Washington State Pinot Gris, $12, Recommended)

2010 Woodbridge Pinot Grigio - The Robert Mondavi value label delivers for a nice light white wine. The blend is low in alcohol at just 12.6 percent. The grapes are 76 percent Pinot Grigio with 21 percent aromatic varieties (unnamed), and 3 percent Sauvignon Blanc.

This is really a nice glass of wine for the price point. I enjoyed the light grapefruit and lime and mild acidity. This is a really good value buy that shouldn't be hard to find at all. (2010 Woodbridge Pinot Grigio, $7.99, Trade Sample, Recommended)

Montecillo 2003 Reserva - This wonderful Temparnillo-based Spanish wine comes from one of the countries oldest wineries. The Rioja has dark cherry and spice galore. While most consumers have enjoyed Spanish wines at the $10-$15 price point, this Reserva will illustrate the bold and beautiful balanced palate pleaser these wines can become. The Reserva bottling consistently scores 89-91 points from the major print wine publications. (Montecillo 2003 Reserva, $19.99-$22.99, Trade Sample, Recommended)

Schloss Proschwitz 2008 Spatburgunder - First, it's unlikely you're going to find this wine but I'm writing about it to make another point. This bottle of German Pinot Noir was delightful. But it was a gift from a German friend hand carried from Deutchland. It appears to be distributed in the U.S. but that's not the point.

Just by chance, I've had two different Spatburgunders in the last few weeks and both were surprisingly good - light Pinot Noir with a nice cherry flavor and quite smooth. This wine retails at approximately $18. Try a German Pinot Noir or Spatburgunder as a Highly Recommended wine.

Lange 2005 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir - This is no Tuesday night wine! As a Pinot with a few years to mature it has dark blueberry, blackberry and a smoky spice type characteristic. And the wonderful earthiness is what makes this such a great wine for my taste.

I've read so many wine reviews where writers extol a wine's silky finish unsure if I've ever had the same experience. Now, I can say I have had a wine with a truly silky texture in your mouth and down the pipe. Lange is one of Oregon's absolute premier producers and, admittedly, one of my favories. (Lange 2005 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, $60, Very Highly Recommended)

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Concannon Adding Red Blend to Conservancy Lineup

2011-05-24T18:45:00.001-04:00

Concannon Vineyards and Winery will introduce a fifth member to its four-wine Conservancy lineup this summer to honor family patriarch Jim Concannon. The Conservancy wine grapes come from a land trust the Concannon family helped establish in California’s Livermore Valley.

The wine industry has long been a leader in organic farming, sustainable farming practices, and even biodynamic farming. A group of select vintners have moved beyond taking care of the land while farming and have placed vineyards into a Conservancy to protect the land from its biggest enemy – suburban sprawl.

The Tri-Valley Conservancy takes permanent ownership of the land but the vintners retain the right to farm the land while it’s protected from development. Currently, there are more than 3100 acres of vineyard in the conservancy.

Concannon Vineyards has been a leader in the movement. America’s oldest continuously operating winery, under the same family name, produces a line of wines with Conservancy on the label. The slightly-more than one-year-old project features grapes grown in the Livermore vineyards that have been placed in the trust. Concannon has produced a Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and their flagship Petit Syrah under the Conservancy label.

John Concannon, visiting Indiana this week to work with distributors and retailers, conducted just one media interview and told Grape Sense a fifth wine will be introduced in July. “Crimson & Clover” will become the newest wine joining the Conservancy lineup. The wines all sell for less than $15.

“Crimson & Clover” will honor John’s father Jim Concannon. Jim is the third generation and grandson of Irishman James Concannon who came to the U.S. in 1883 and acquired what is now the family vineyard property. Jim Concannon is best known for planting the country's first Petit Syrah in 1961. The family is celebrating the intense little wine grape’s 50th anniversary this year.

“Crimson & Clover” is going to be a living tribute to my father; my living tribute to my Dad,” John Concannon told me Monday night. “It’s going to be 50 percent Petit Syrah and he’s the originator of Petit Syrah so I want it to be a living tribute.”

The wine will follow current popular trends of red wine blends. The “Crimson & Clover” Conservancy wine will be 50 percent Petit Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Zinfandel as part of the blend. It also will sell for less than $15.

The wine will be released in the distinctive Conservancy bottles but will feature a red label. The red represents the Petit Syrah, Jim Concannon’s signature wine, while the clover represents the family’s Irish heritage.

“He’s a great man and he’s very humble, to him it’s all about family,” John Concannon said. “Family, God and country he says, in that order. His life is his family and his work. I think that’s why he’s still sharp at 80. He loves what he does.”

Jim Concannon is at the winery and in the vineyards each day. In recent years, John has persuaded his father to write about the family history, his years developing Concannon wines and working with some of the state’s best known family wine names.

They’ve produced a beautiful coffee table photo book about Concannon Vineyards. John spends about a third of the year on the road working with distributors, retailers, and press to tell the Concannon story.

Still, John’s tone changes a bit and he struggles a little for the right words to talk about the personal importance of adding “Crimson & Clover” to the Conservancy wine list.

“We’ve got the four Conservancy wines,” he said. “We have the vineyard and the Conservancy and it’s doing good and it feels good. I just want it to be a living tribute.”

Concannon wines are distributed in all 50 states. Look for "Crimson & Clover" later this summer. Meanwhile, the Conservancy wines are outstanding value buys for under $15.

Tasting Notes from Dinner with John Concannon:
2009 Conservancy Chardonnay, $15 - Even as a non-Chardonnay drinker I found the Concannon very nice white wine. You get the hints of American and French oak but its not nearly as overpowering as so many California Chards. It had pleasant hints of pear with a creamy palate texture. A nice soft finish will please most Chard fans, especially those who prefer less oak or stainless steel over oak. Recommended!

2008 Conservancy Merlot, $15 - I won't drink any "fricken" Merlot may be a thing of the past. I liked the Concannon Merlot more than I ever would have expected. I admit, I'm one of those "Sideways" people. The secret just might be that 10 percent of Cabernet added to give the wine "a little kick," as John suggested. I got blackberry and something like a caramel hint from this wine. Recommended!

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, $15 - I've written hundreds of times it's hard to find good Cab at $15 and under but add this one to your list of exceptions! The wine had full body, nice tannins on the finish preceded by all the dark fruit and spice you'd expect from a Cabernet. The blend includes a little Syrah and Petit Verdot. Highly Recommended!

2008 Petit Sirah, $15 - Jim Concannon was first to plant this grape in California. They give a large portion of their vineyard land to Petit Sirah - so you'd expect this flagship wine to be pretty darn good and it doesn't disappoint. Petit Sirah is not for beginners or the faint of heart. But you'll get big chocolate, coffee and ripe fruit hints from the this big boy! I loved the soft and smooth finish. This is one exceptional bottle of wine for $15. Very Highly Recommended!

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Jim Butler One of Indiana's Winery Leaders

2011-05-24T11:50:00.006-04:00

BLOOMINGTON, In. – Every state has its wine pioneers, those brave souls who started turning grapes to wine when no one else would.

It’s easy to come up with California’s iconic brands like Gallo, Mondavi, Fetzer, and so many more. But can you name Indiana’s leaders? Names like Oliver, Thomas, Easley, Huber, and Butler are sure to be on just about anyone’s list.

Jim Butler, Butler Winery and Vineyards, got his start at Oliver in 1976 and then after about six years opened his own winery just north of Bloomington. Today, he has tasting rooms in downtown Bloomington and Chesterton. The third tasting room is at his vineyard and winery just a few miles north of Bloomington.

“Our focus has always been doing Indiana-grown grapes,” Butler said. “There are a lot of wineries that establish their name, but base things on California grapes. There are Indiana wineries that do that. But my philosophy has always been ‘as long as we’re bringing grapes in from California and using the names Cabernet and Chardonnay we’re promoting California not Indiana.’ ”

Butler has proven to the world he knows how to make fine wine equal to any California producer. He holds the honor of being the first Indiana winery to ever win one of the top five awards at the prestigious Indy International Wine Competition. Butler’s 2008 Chambourcin Rose’ was named best Rose’ in the 2009 international contest. The annual competition draws more than 3,000 wines from 10 different countries.

“We sold out of that one very quickly and we raised the price twice,” Butler laughed. “That just kind of established the fact it can be done. I don’t know how long the good will lasts but it definitely is good for credibility.”

Butler started at its downtown Bloomington location in 1983 and then expanded to its current winery/vineyard site in 1991. The Chesterton tasting room opened in June 2008. Butler produces more than 2,500 cases annually.

The grape varieties he grows and buys from other Indiana vineyards includes Cayuga, Vignoles, Chardonel, Chambourcin, Traminette, Catawba, and Concord. He also makes a few fruit wines from Indiana growers.

“I think clean and fresh (describe our wines),” he said. “We try to never put anything in the bottle we’re not proud of. No matter where you go, what state, you’re going to find wines and wonder why they bottled it. That’s something I’ve always tried not to do. We’ve always focused on good sound quality.”

Butler wants to increase his red wine lineup and he’s looking north for one of the possibilities. He recently planted Marquette, a grape developed by cool climate guru the late Elmer Swenson from the University of Minnesota.

“It’s an early grape, a cousin to Frontenac, but the Marquette has a better tannin structure,” Butler said. He hopes to make a 100 percent varietal bottling of Marquette. The wine is usually described as one with a cherry, berry, black pepper, and spice smell and flavor.

Howard’s Picks:
2009 Chambourcin Rose’, $13.95 – All of the 2008 top prize winner is gone but this remains a beautiful Rose’ wine. You get hints of cherry and even apple from Butler’s signature wine.

2009 Chambourcin, $18.95 – This really nice dry red wine, aged in French Oak, is at the top of Butler’s price point for grape varietal wines. But it’s worth every penny. I’ve tasted a lot of bad Indiana Chambourcin and a few pretty good ones. Butler’s Chambourcin ranks near the top.

Marion Chronicle-Tribune Joins Lineup

2011-05-20T09:41:00.001-04:00

The Marion Chronicle-Tribune in northeastern Indiana has become the 17th newspaper to run my Grape Sense wine column.

Editor David Penticuff is an old friend who was anxious to add the column to his Sunday paper's lineup. The C-T has more than 20,000 subscribers for its Sunday edition.

When I started the whole wine writing adventure 2.5 years ago I had a goal of 20 newspapers. A year ago I wasn't optimistic but now at 17 I can see it's possible. It's been rewarding to get the feedback from various communities and also that no paper has dropped the column since I got started.

Thanks for reading the blog: Grape Sense - A Glass Half Full and for the newspaper readers of Grape Sense!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

A Thumbs Up/Down for Two Pinots; Thumbs up On Syrah

2011-05-18T18:46:00.010-04:00

The next great thing is always a lot of fun to pursue whether its technology, celebrity, or wine.

Many believe one of the next great things in wine will be Pinot Noir in Chile. Well ... I'm still waiting.

Quintay Clava Costal Reserve Pinot Noir $13.99 - I actually liked this Pinot quite a bit. It had remarkably bright red rasberry/strawberry notes on the palate in a light Pinot style.

The grapes come from Chile's Casablanca Valley and are turned into pretty good juice for the price by Vicente Johnson. eRobert Parker awarded the wine a very respectable 88 points.

(Quintary Clava Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir $13-$17, Recommended)

Tabali Reserva Especial 2009 Pinot Noir $19.99 - When I dislike a wine or open a bad bottle I seldom write about it. After all, I figure most blog readers are looking for the good stuff. But this wine remains a bit of a mystery.

Noting my curiousity about the 'next big thing' I've wanted to find some good Chilean Pinot Noir. I've had several wine friends recommend the Tabali. It's widely available at a reasonable price for good Pinot Noir.

The bottle I recently opened was so off, with a bit of a chemical taint, that I couldn't quite tell whether it was the wine or if something had gone bad. Normally, I can figure that out pretty quick.

(Tabali Reserva Especial 2009 Pinot Noir, $19.99, Jury Still Out)

Volatus 2005 Syrah/Malbec Blend, $30.00 - This was a wonderful small-production wine from Paso Robles that rocks huge flavor, nice balance, AND a powerful punch. Wine drinkers who like big flavor, will love Paso Robles Syrah and Syrah blends.

The wine hits your palate with a wallop of dark fruit like blackberry. The tannins hang around awhile for a beautiful finish. You'll also get some earthiness like you do from all the great wine growing regions.

Volatus would be very tough to find in the Midwest. The reason I include it is to suggest Syrah, Zinfandel, and bigger flavored wines from Paso Robles just rock.

I also include it for those of you who might do wine travel. I joined a Paso Robles wine club. That's how I got this wine. If you travel to an area and taste great small production wines, find someone that ships to your state and sign up. If you can get it direct from the winery, those folks get more of the revenue. And that's another good thing!

(Volatus 2005 Syrah/Malbec Blend, $30, Highly Recommended)

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Read Coro Mendocino Story on Palate Press

2011-05-17T14:44:00.004-04:00

One of the coolest things to come out of my January trip to California's Mendocino wine region was learning about Coro Mendocino.

I have written a story for the national online magazine Palate Press. It went live Monday. Here is a direct link to the story.

The wines can be a little tough in the midwest though a few of the wineries do ship direct. A full list of the participating wineries is included in the story.

The wines were awesome but no two were alike. I tasted them very late on the evening of my flight to the coast. So I can't offer much detail from that wonderful, but certainly jet-lagged, dinner.

I hope to get a few of the Coro wines in the near future for review.

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Value White Wine Picks for Summer

2011-05-11T14:21:00.005-04:00

How can you go wrong with something light, refreshing, and affordable?

Summer time is white wine time for most wine-consuming Americans. There are so many affordable choices that are easy to find it would take two or three columns to list them all. Instead, here is a list of some of my most-recent favorites.

These wines are all available in Indiana and Illinois or will be soon.

Woodbridge 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($7.99) – This should be easy to find and even easier to drink. It’s a very light bodied Sauv Blanc with citrus and tropical fruit. The acid is milder than most Sauv Blancs. It’s actually a blend of Sauv Blanc, French Colombard, Semillon, and Verdelho. Try it all alone or with white fish.

Argiolas Costamolino 2009 Vermentino ($15.99 and less) – A very nice bouquet is followed by a mouthful of citrus and pineapple. It has a nice acidity that makes this Italian beauty pair well with food. Wine Advocate gave this light-colored wine 89 points.

Buried Cane 2009 Chardonnay ($14.) – This Washington State unoaked Chardonnay is a stunner for $14. The grapes come mostly from the Columbia Valley region. This would be great on the porch on a summer evening or with light fare. You’ll get hints of peach on this light and fruity wine. Currently available in Illinois and very soon in Indiana. Buried Cane is a great label with consistent wines.

Helfrich 2009 Riesling ($14.99) – This is an old French winemaker from the Alsace region that offers a beautiful Riesling for the price. Many U.S. Rieslings are a bit on the sweet side but the Helfrich gives you nice crisp green apple and medium acidity. I’d call it a ‘not too sweet, not too dry” type of wine.

Flipflop 2010 Pinot Grigio ($7) – Easy to find at an incredible price. This light-bodied white gives you a hint of pear and a nice clean finish. Pasta with white sauces, light snacks on the porch, or even a glassful on a hot day would be a great pairing!

E. Guigal 2009 Cotes du Rhone Blanc ($12) – For you Francophiles here is an inexpensive white wine than anyone can love. It’s mostly Viognier along with several lesser known Rhone white varietals. It’s certainly floral and a great pairing with spicy dishes.

Brassfield Estate Winery 2009 Serenity ($9.99-$14.99) – This was one of the nicest white blends I’ve tasted in years. The Napa wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Gewurtztraminer, and Semilon. You will taste the honey dew melon on the palate and nicely balanced acidity. It’s a very well-made and refreshing white wine.

Again, all or most of these whites should be easy to find at any wine shop or well-stocked liquor store. But if these aren’t on the shelves here are some additional suggestions.

Try Torrontos, it’s the latest rage out of Argentina. The wines are ‘hot’ right now with wine fans. They are very inexpensive and feature a very floral scent with a fruity texture. Check the alcohol level before buying one though, I’ve found some Torrontos higher than most whites in alcohol content.

I’ve written before about Spanish and Portugal’s Albarino. It’s one of my favorite white grapes. It’s lean and crisp with a minerality that is a great thirst quencher. Great bottles can be found under $15.

Finally, here’s another plug for Indiana Traminette. Most Indiana wineries make a Traminette in a sweet to semi-sweet or semi-dry style. It will remind regular wine drinkers of a Gewurtz, but if you’ve never tried or heard of that think of a mildly sweet wine that is very floral.

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Butler Making Great Rose, Chambourcin

2011-05-09T10:24:00.007-04:00

I posted a photo similar to this one (shot with my iPhone) to Facebook over the weekend. I made my first-ever visit to Butler Vineyards near Bloomington, In. Friday evening.

I loved the similar shot I took with a camera ... and being in the vineyards so soon after budbreak ... that I had to put the photo up here as well.

Jim Butler worked at the well-known Oliver Winery for six years before opening his own winery in 1983. I had a nice visit and will have a future newspaper column about Butler.

They do make really great Indiana wine and would be high on my recommendation list. The winery sits out in the country surrounded by vineyard a few miles north of Bloomington. Butler has a downtown Bloomington tasting room and three years ago opened a tasting room in northwestern Indiana's Chesterton.

Butler has a big claim to fame from the 2009 Indy International Wine Competition. Their dry Chambourcin Rose won best Rose from thousands of wines submitted from 10 different countries. No Indiana winery had ever won one of the best-of-category awards before or since.

The 2008 award-winning vintage is all gone but the 2009 is pretty good wine. Butler also does some fun dessert wines. The dry Chambourcin may have been one of the best-balanced versions I've tasted.

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Michigan Story on Black Star Farms Website

2011-05-04T21:49:00.001-04:00

I do a few wine pieces that don't always find their way to this blog - not much, but a few.

I was asked several months ago to do a piece on Michigan wine for Black Star Farms. I visited their very impressive operation near Sutton's Bay, Mi. last summer.

Coryn Briggs, marketing guru for Black Star, wrote me a few months back about making one of 12 guest column submissions for 2011. I took a piece I actually wrote for Madison Magazine, an upscale quarterly publication in Anderson, and re-wrote it for the Black Star winery website blog.

They added my piece to their blog today. Here is a link to the story on their site.

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Day Two's Star: LedgeStone/Parallel 44's Frontenac

2011-04-30T21:46:00.017-04:00

GREEN BAY, Wi. Area – An early Saturday morning car trip to Northeast Wisconsin was rewarded with a taste of some fascinating wines made with cold climate grapes.

From Madison, the trip to the region just south of Green Bay is about two-and-a-half hours. I started the day at LedgeStone Vineyards in Greenleaf.

Tim Abel has strong opinions that Wisconsin’s wine future is the native cold weather grapes like LaCrescent, Frontenac, Marquette, Frontenac Gris, Edelweiss, La Crosse, St. Pepin, and Swenson Red. These cold-weather grapes were the work of University of Minnesota’s Horticultural Research Center’s Elmer Swenson.

I had heard about Frontenac before my two-day Wisconsin visit but had never tasted the wine. I’ll unabashedly admit I became a fan after tasting the grape in several different styles during my Saturday wine stops.

Abel has a modest operation with limited vineyards, but he's growing all cold climate grapes. He buys some fruit and even uses his tasting room as a bit of a retail outlet for wines of the world.

My first-ever sip of Frontenac was Tim’s 2008 Frontenac Reserve, grown in the LedgeStone Vineyard. The bone-dry red wine has really nice acid and a tart black cherry flavor I’ve not had in any red wine before.

LedgeStone also offers a Rose of Frontenac that had a little more pronounced fruit and even bigger tartness. I loved it.

My first taste of LaCrescent, a white varietal, was equally impressive. The wine had lemon and apricot flavors, a long finish, and big acidity. But the wine was well balanced.

LedgeStone has a little higher price point than the other three visits. Tim’s Reserve is $28 at full retail while the LaCrescent is $22.

A stop an awesome cheese shop not far from Greenleaf split my two winery visits. I bought some artisan Wisconsin cheese at Nala's Fromagerie. Great stuff!

See photos from my Saturday stops here.

Then it was off to visit Steve Johnson and Maria Milano at Parallel 44. The winery is a handful of miles off the Lake Michigan coast near Kewaunee. It is a Tuscan-themed winery that sets down a county road with a 10-acre vineyard out back.

The two are former lawyers taking their case to the consumer wine court with the cold varietal grapes. Steve was more outspoken than any of the other three winemakers about getting these unique wines outside the state. He sees the state’s future resting on the unique varietals and growth outside of Wisconsin.

Parallel 44’s Glacier White was a nice grapefruit flavored, crisp white wine made from Swenson and LaCrosse grapes. It was quite dry with pronounced acidity, but still balanced for $18. The winery’s $13 Tundra White is a combination of Frontenac Gris and La Crescent that was semi-sweet with some peach and honey hints. It’s easy to see new wine consumers scooping this one up.

And being so close to Green Bay, Steve and Maria had to have fun with the region’s cultural history. Yes, they have a wine called “Frozen Tundra!” The iconic moniker most associated with the Green Bay Packer’s Lambeau Field becomes a Frontenac Rose at the winery. The wine is a big seller with sweet cherry and a nice tartness.

I tasted a few other wines and did some extensive interviews. I’ll be doing an over-all story about Wisconsin wine for Palate Press in the coming weeks. I’ll also have a newspaper column or two about this visit and more for the blog.

Here’s a little shout out to Becky Rochester at the Wisconsin Grape Marketing Coordinator for the Wisconsin Grape Grower’s Association. She helped arrange my visits and shared a lot of helpful information. Also, I will post a big photo album from both day's visit Sunday or Monday - so check back!

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