Showing posts with label Chablis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chablis. Show all posts

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Something New, Something Old for Holiday Turkey Pairing


The Golden Rule of wine and food pairing is a simple one – if you like it, drink it!

But when the family gathers for the turkey feast or at Christmas time something more is often expected. How about something different? Or maybe it’s time to serve up something a bit more extravagant!

An occupational hazard for wine writers is the expected column of wine recommendations for the holidays so who am I to disappoint?

The first rule of picking wines for a big meal is do not overly focus on the main protein. Think about all of those side dishes and the different flavors. That makes almost any wine a good pick. But with the Turkey and main course there are some certain winners and perhaps a few you’ve never tried worth picking up.

A good domestic Chardonnay will work every time. You can buy palatable bottles at the grocery or most liquor stores. I recommend value labels Robert Mondavi, Mirrasou, and flip flop as very drinkable wines if you want to keep you’re price point under $10 a bottle.

Dry Riesling is another outstanding choice. Frankly, there is so much good Riesling made in the U.S., you don’t need to think foreign to find a great bottle. New York and Michigan are areas really emerging with their Riesling wines. Washington state winemakers are producing great Riesling. Several Midwestern wineries are doing Riesling as well.

If there is a decent wine shop nearby there are several other great choices. 

If you like drier wines but want a big nose of autumn in your glass try a Gewurztraminer or Viognier.  Gewurzt is one of the most aromatic wines in the world. It can be fairly sweet to off-dry. Viognier, my choice of the two, is a drier white wine with hints of apple, pear, and spice. For an even better pairing go drier with a Pinot Gris or Chenin Blanc.

For the extravagant dinner gathering, splurge for the world’s best white wine – Chablis. Better wine shops will have a few labels to choose from. Chablis is Chardonnay made in a dry, crisp style with tremendous minerality and acidity. Real Chablis comes from Chablis, France and nowhere else. 

Frankly, don’t buy the other stuff. Chablis would be awesome with any poultry. You can find great bottles starting in the $20 price range and up. Domaine William Fevre, Billaud-Simon, and Drouhin are just three labels which consistently make outstanding French white wine. 

Here is an option many people just won’t think about or consider, but Rose’ wines make a great pairing with poultry. Rose is that nice middle point between white and red wines and the quality continues to skyrocket vintage to vintage. Find a French Provence Rose or an Oregon Pinot Noir Rose for your Turkey.  Midwestern wineries make pretty good to outstanding Rose’ wines. Just go for the dry Rose wines regardless of region to match well with your dinner.

The red of choice has long been Pinot Noir for Thanksgiving. And again, if you are sticking with value look for the labels mentioned above.  But if it’s off to the wine shop, consider a French Beaujolais – and not that Nouveau stuff. Find a Beaujolais Cru wine from Julienas, Morgon, or Fleurie. The Gamay-based wines are very affordable at $12-$18 and great with food.

If you want to impress pick up any bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir above the $30 price point. It is sure to be a huge hit with your guests. (Lange is a personal favorite.)

Next Column: Gadgets for the wine lover on your Christmas list!

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Check Out the Photos From Chablis Wine Trip

A pretty little canal in the heart of the village of Chablis
One of the fun things about trips to wine country, besides the incredible wines, fabulous foods and the royal treatment, is a chance to shoot photos.

I did a little (not much) photography off and on in my newspaper career. But when I took my current position in 2004, I had to step up my photo game.

I'm still a photo novice of sorts but have gotten much better. I have carried heavy and expensive equipment on previous trips that's not much fun for travel. So when I was in Bordeaux and noticed a fellow journalist/photographer using a higher-end point-and-shoot camera, I asked a lot of questions.

The result is I went out and bought a 12 megapixel, 20 times zoom, image stabilization camera for under $300.

The album attached is the result and I'm pretty pleased. Check out my shots from Chablis.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Saturday, October 27, 2012

Educational Experience Learning Chablis' Differences



Very chilly but spectacular view of Chablis from the vineyards
Who stands atop a hill with strong winds and 36 degree weather talking about wine? I would be guilty as charged.

Szablowksi talking terroir atop the hill
But it's not a normal occasion to be standing on top of a hill overlooking Chablis, France, with one of the area's top educators. Our small press contingent had the opportunity this morning to spend time with Eric Szablowski, one of Burgundy's leading wine experts.

It was darn cold but fascinating to hear why Chablis is so special and different. At several times this morning the group discussion followed a similar pattern. The world knows Chablis as a fresh, clean wine with good minerality - but they can also be quite different.

Erik took us into the vineyards and showed us the incredible slopes on the hills around Chablis and nearby villages. He explained the effect of the clay and limestone soils which effect the vineyards and therefore the wines.

Chablis is not a large area with 350-400 wine growers and just more than 100 producers of any significant amounts of wine. Additionally, these produces export approximately 70-80 percent of all the wines they make.

Tasting at the Fete des Vins
But to understand how one wine with the standard characteristics can vary to the next Erik explained the terroir. Take the Grand Cru vineyard, for instance. There is just one Grand Cru but there are seven different sub climates within that vineyard area with its slopes, soils, and exposure to the sun. "Eighty percent of the quality of the wine is determined in the vineyard and the other 20 percent by the winemaker," he offered.

We followed up the chill walk around two sections of Chablis vineyards by tasting the 2012 ChablisWine Award winners. We tasted 10 different wines which won mostly gold, and a few silver, medals in the recent competition. The tasting showed the differences slight and significant the Chardonnay grape can produce in this diverse terroir. 

I hope to add notes on most of the 10 wines later. I did take notes to share because most are available in the U.S. My two favorites were Damien and Romain Bouchard's Premier Cru Montee' de Tonnerre and Domaine Drouhin's Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru.

The event we’re here to enjoy is the Chablis Fete des Vins, or festival of wine. There are more than 50 producers pouring their wines, food, and entertainment.

Our group translator Isabell Terrillon accompanied me to a number of booths she recommened for visits. Here are a few of my favorites. All of the ones listed here have at least some distribution in the U.S.

Domaine Fevre (Nathtalie and Giles) – I tasted through most of the Chablis with Nathalie who speaks great English. I loved the consistency of her wines with or without hints of old oak. Many of the labels had good bottles but some not quite at the same standard.  Her wines were age worthy but showed quite nice as young wines.

Domaine Chantemerle Boudin Pere & Fils – A limited selection of wines but also available in the U.S. I loved his two Premier Cru wines at very affordable prices. With a very old-world label they represent the second tier (Premier) well at prices in France of under 20E.

Vins Fins de Chablis (Isabelle et Denis Pommier) – Again very consistent across the four major appelations of Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier and Grand Cru. Isabelle took time to answer questions and talk about the wines. Another very affordable label even once you add the importing costs and distribution markups for top quality Chablis.

Jean-Marc Brocard – This was my first stop of the festival and one of the best. The Brocard name is well known not just in Chablis but around the world. Consistently in elegance and style, the wines were consistently well balanced with great minerality, finesse in winemaking, and reasonably priced. I bought a Premier Cru to bring home.

Domaine des Marronniers (Bernard Legland) – A producers of very stylish wines with understated fruit and that nice acidic finish you expect from Chablis. Bernard poured the wines at the booth and talked about the vinification (through Isabelle’s able translation.)

Pascal Bouchard – A great name producing great wines. I like the twist of his sons, who won one of the Chabis Commissions 2012 awards for their Premier Cru Montee de Tonnere  label. Romain Brocard poured three different Chablis which I found enjoyable across the board. The Montee de Tonnere was one of the best wines I tasted all day.

I did taste at a couple of other booths but found the lines inconsistent or not to my liking.
 
Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Transcontinental Travel & Press Trips



PARIS, France – When 2012 began it was hard to image Languedoc, Bordeaux, and Chablis would be added to my wine travel resume.

Yet, I just arrived at Auxerre, near Chablis, France. 

I attended the Millesime Bio in Montpellier, in Southern France, in January thanks largely to networking and wine friends. A New York marketing firm representing Bordeaux winemakers found me for the July trip to Bordeaux’s Fete le Vin. This trip is a similar story with a NY firm representing Chablis issuing the invitation.

I was actually invited on a late-September trip to Provence, which I would have loved, but had to turn it down for an important work conflict. The contact then shared plans for an early October presser into regions of the Languedoc I had not visited in January – and I declined that one because of the bill-paying job. But when they mentioned Chablis at the end of the month, I knew I could make the trip.

The trip was unnecessarily arduous - Indy to Atlanta with an unexpected stop in New York. We flew up the eastern coast off the shores of North American and out of the Atlantic only to divert back to JFK airport to check an “electrical problem. That took an hour and half-plus before we again headed to Paris. I arrived six hours after my scheduled arrival and 15 hours on a Delta 747. And no one cares about other people’s flight woes, but if you’re booking a flight anytime soon I will note that on four Delta flights to Europe this year I’ve had three substantial flight issues.

All you need on a plane, a laptop and glass of French Merlot
My savior today was Noemie of Sopexo’s Paris office. The young French woman, who spent part of a year interning in New York City, was assigned to get me on my way to Auxerre. Even that proved eventful. Finding one’s way through Charles DeGaulle Airport is a challenge. But I’ve made it, so let the wine geekiness begin. It kicks off tonight with a welcoming dinner hosted by Jean Francois Bordet, President of the Chablis Commission of the Burgundy Wine Board our host.

Press trips are an oddity that have become very popular in recent years. I believe in full disclosure and that’s really the topic of the post. The sponsoring organization pays all costs. Obviously, flying four journalists from the USA to Paris, taxi rides, dinners, overnight stays, etc, isn’t an inexpensive proposition.

And for the record, if not obvious, they take very good care of us and treat us well! (That might actually be an understatement.)

I didn’t know what to make of these wine press trips in 2010 when I was invited to participate on a trip to Paso Robles, California. As a longtime traditional print journalist, I was taken aback by accepting a trip and perks which would have been unthinkable in the newspaper business. So I consulted with a few wine-writing friends who gave me the lowdown..

Essentially the advice was to go. They cautioned me to avoid any quid pro quo – or, ‘Yes, I’ll write all about your region and your wines if you take me on this free trip.’ And most smart New York marketing companies know how that works. Some do push a little harder than others on what one ‘might write.’ Instead, I’ve learned the best answer is a simple truth. I make no promises. But with a widely distributed newspaper column, this blog, an every-other-week column in Indianapolis’ NUVO weekly, quarterly feature for Madison Magazine, based in Anderson, IN., and as a founding contributing editor for Palate Press – The National Online Wine Magazine, I have a lot of mouths to feed.

So what do the wine regions get out of it? Couldn’t they just go buy an ad in Wine Spectator or one of the major US wine publications? Well, they could but they wouldn’t be able to tell stories or match the cost efficiency.

I will post something this weekend about the other U.S. wine journalists on the trip – Roger Morris, Lisa Hall, and Michael Apstein. But we all represent different areas of the country with different audiences. I offer up to 300,000 homes because of my print work – and that doesn’t include the hits my column gets on the newspaper sites that post it after print publication. I have the national/international audience through Palate Press - if I find a “story” I like and one the editors of PP will accept.

So you do the math and a press trip is far less expensive for regional wine associations than traditional advertising venues.

Furthermore, I would argue, for the most part you are also winning over brand ambassadors. On the trips I’ve joined, most of the writers were making their first visit to the region. That first-ever trip to Paso Robles continues to show up in my wine writing more than two years after I visited the area. I know about Paso and its Rhone grapes, rich Cabernet and Syrah. 

As one might imagine I catch a lot of good natured teasing where I work. “Off on another free wine junket, huh?” Well, yes I am. Frankly, most wine writers – including yours truly– make nothing on our wine writing efforts. I have a full time job in marketing and communication that pays the bills. The few pieces I am paid for over the course of a year might cover a car payment but not the monthly mortgage.

Please follow along. I learn things each time around. I didn’t buy an AT&T data plan on the two previous visits to France this year but did for this trip. That means I’ll be able to Tweet and do Facebook posts throughout the weekend.

The most exciting thing though is learning about a wine region new to me – in this case one of the most prestigious and terroir-driven regions in the world. We have a great itinerary.
 

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Back to France: Off to Chablis Thursday

If I'm not a full-fledged Francophile by Christmas it's not for a lack of opportunity. I'll be leaving Thursday for my third France wine press trip of 2012.

I'll join three other U.S. wine journalists as guests of the Burgundy Wine Board at the Chablis Fete des Vins, or wine festival. This is a quick trip. We arrive Friday morning, spend time at the festival and in the vineyards and wineries Saturday and Sunday and its then a quick return home Monday.

But hey, it's France; and, it's Chablis!

I'm going to try to blog each day and do more frequent updates on Facebook and Twitter. You can follow me through the links in the right column. On previous trips I didn't activate a data plan for my iPhone but it's only $30 so this time I'm going to give it a try.

Jean-Francois Bordet of Domaine Seguinot Bordet
We're going to be staying in the nearby city of Auxxere, a town of about 40,000 people not far from Chablis. After a get-acquainted dinner Friday night, we have a very full Saturday agenda. But it seems quite an honor that we will be dining with Jean-Francois Bordet, the President of the Chablis Commission of the Burgundy Wine Board.

We'll start in the vineyards and then taste the award winners of the 2012  Chablis Wine Awards.

Saturday afternoon will be an afternoon of tasting and discovery with more than 50 presenters of Chablis' four appelations. They are certainly treating the journalists well on this trip. On Saturday evening we will be guests of the Confrerie des Piliers Chablisiens - "a wine society that honors those who by activity, writing, or way of doing things have served the cause of Burgundy and more especially Chablis."

These societies are common in the great wine producing regions of France. It's a real honor to be able to attend.

The Piliers Chablisiens parade gets us started on Sunday with visits after lunch to Domaine Billaud-Simon with Bernard Billaud and then a tasting at La Chablisienne.

We'll be transported back to Paris Sunday evening to catch our Monday flights home.

This should be a really memorable trip. I'm not sure any region is best known for its expression of terrior through just one grape - Chardonnay - like Chablis. Follow along here and on my social media sites.

Send comment or questions to: hewitthoward@gmail.com